Home & Lifestyle

What Is Retinol? Retinol Benefits, Side Effects, and How to Use It

Written by MasterClass

Last updated: Jan 19, 2023 • 5 min read

If you’re worried about wrinkles, dark spots, or acne scars, you might want to try retinol, the miracle ingredient that creates an even skin tone and renewed firmness.

Learn From the Best

What Is Retinol?

Retinol is a form of vitamin A and the active ingredient in many topical creams and moisturizers. You can find retinol-based skin care products over the counter or receive more potent prescription retinoid products from a dermatologist.

Similar chemicals include retinyl palmitate (retinol plus palmitic acid), retinal (aka retinaldehyde, a vitamin A precursor), retinoic acid (a metabolite of retinol), and the other retinoids (vitamin A derivatives), such as adapalene, tazarotene, and tretinoin.

What Does Retinol Do?

Retinol increases elastin and collagen production, which promotes healthy skin cell turnover and helps reduce inflammation. As a retinoid (vitamin A derivative), retinol also provides antioxidant properties that neutralize skin-damaging free radicals. When used as part of your skincare routine, retinol products can treat acne and acne scars, improve skin texture and dark spots caused by sun damage, and reduce or slow the signs of aging.

6 Retinol Benefits: What Is Retinol Good For?

Retinol promises relief from a variety of skin conditions, including the following:

  1. 1. Acne: Retinol promotes skin cell turnover, which helps prevent clogged pores that can lead to pimples and acne breakouts. You can find many over-the-counter retinol treatments for acne or see a dermatology expert for a more potent prescription-strength retinol cream.
  2. 2. Age spots: Hyperpigmentation or dark spots appear as a build-up of melanin due to sun damage or as a natural part of the aging process. Over-the-counter topical retinol treatments may reduce the appearance of age spots over time, though you may require a stronger prescription retinoid to fade darker areas. Remember to wear SPF to prevent hyperpigmentation (and because retinol increases your skin’s sensitivity to light).
  3. 3. Enlarged pores: Noticeably large pores occur when oil and dead skin cells clog them. Retinol helps clear clogged skin by increasing skin cell turnover, effectively exfoliating your skin.
  4. 4. Scar minimization: Whether you have acne scars or scars caused by an injury, retinol can speed up the skin’s healing process and even out your skin tone. Severe acne scars may require further treatment beyond retinoid products.
  5. 5. Skin disorders: Retinol can help with skin disorders that involve inflammation, such as psoriasis and rosacea, reducing redness and creating a more even skin tone. Since retinol can also cause irritation and dryness, check with your dermatologist about the best choice for your skin type before using retinol for skin disorders.
  6. 6. Wrinkles and fine lines: As you age, your skin loses collagen, elastin, and the ability to retain moisture, which creates sagging and wrinkles. Retinol serums and eye creams can reduce the appearance of fine lines by increasing collagen and elastin, which “plump” your skin.

Retinol Side Effects

If you have sensitive skin, allergies, or preexisting skin conditions, be aware of the following possible side effects when you use retinol products:

  1. 1. Acne breakout: With retinol, sometimes your skin situation gets worse before it gets better. In some, retinol products may cause a temporary flare of acne.
  2. 2. Dryness: Despite its hydrating effects over time, initially, retinol can cause dry skin in some people. Dryness may include skin peeling or flaking or an eczema flare-up.
  3. 3. Irritation: Retinol may irritate sensitive skin. You may experience redness, blistering, burning, swelling, and itching.
  4. 4. Sun sensitivity: Retinol makes your skin more sensitive to the harsh effects of sunlight, so be sure to wear an effective sunscreen while using retinol treatments. Mineral sunscreen provides the best protection, as it creates an immediate physical barrier between your skin and the sun. Check out makeup artist Bobbi Brown’s best sunscreen recommendations.

What Is the Retinol Purge?

Retinol purging occurs when you first introduce retinol to your skin, when you may experience a two- to six-week period of dryness, acne breakouts, redness, and itchiness. After the purging passes, you should see steady improvement in your skin health.

Retinol vs. Retinoid: What’s the Difference?

While retinol is a type of retinoid, and they share many of the same effects, the two terms are not interchangeable and have several key differences:

  1. 1. Composition: “Retinol” is a specific term for a vitamin A derivative that doesn’t function as an active ingredient in skincare formulations. Instead, you must apply it to your skin so your enzymes can convert it to retinoic acid. On the other hand, the term “retinoids” refers to a range of ingredients (including retinol) that can be active skincare ingredients and typically already contain retinoic acid.
  2. 2. Effects: All retinoids (including retinol) offer similar potential skincare benefits, such as increasing collagen production, unclogging pores, helping with hyperpigmentation, reducing fine lines, and fading sun damage or acne scars. However, because retinol is a low-strength retinoid, it often won’t perform these antiaging or acne treatment functions as well as a prescription-strength retinoid.
  3. 3. Time frame: Retinol is a slow-acting retinoid, typically taking about twelve weeks of regular use before you can see its full effect. Alternatively, higher-strength retinoids can show results as soon as four weeks after your first use.
  4. 4. Best uses: Many retinoids, including retinol, have side effects like redness, dryness, flaking, or irritation. However, since retinol products are lower-strength, dermatologists may recommend them for individuals with sensitive skin, dry skin, irritation-prone skin, or those just starting with retinoid products. Dermatologists may recommend higher-strength prescription retinoids, like tretinoin, if you have previously used topical retinoids or have a skin type that can tolerate it.
  5. 5. Access: Retinol serums are available at drugstores as an over-the-counter product, while higher-strength retinoid products are typically prescription-only.

How to Use Retinol

Always read the instructions on retinol products before applying them to your skin, or ask your dermatologist how to use a prescription product. Generally, you can follow these steps to use retinol:

  1. 1. Do a patch test. If you’re using an over-the-counter product at home, always do a patch test on a small area of your skin to check for allergic reactions. Wait a few days, and if the reaction feels manageable, you can feel confident to start using the product.
  2. 2. Cleanse your skin. Once you’re ready to use retinol, wash your skin with a gentle cleanser and pat dry. Be sure to avoid over-exfoliating your skin while using retinol products. Wait thirty minutes before applying retinol.
  3. 3. Apply in a thin layer. After thirty minutes, gently apply a pea-sized amount of your retinol product to your face, avoiding your eyes, mouth, and nose. At first, use retinol every other day until your skin adjusts to the product.
  4. 4. Moisturize. Follow your retinol treatment with a noncomedogenic facial moisturizer that won’t clog your pores. Remember to use sunscreen daily and reapply as needed, even if it doesn’t seem very sunny.

Before Starting a New Skincare Regimen

Individuals experience different levels of sensitivity to ingredients in various skincare products. To prevent adverse reactions, consult a dermatologist before applying a new product to your skin. This article is for educational and informational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional medical advice.

Learn More

Get the MasterClass Annual Membership for exclusive access to video lessons taught by the world’s best, including Sir John, Bobbi Brown, RuPaul, Marc Jacobs, Diane von Furstenberg, and more.