What Is Microneedling? How Microneedling Works

Also known as collagen induction therapy, microneedling is a non-invasive procedure that involves using tiny sterile needles to prick the skin, creating “micro” holes. The human skin-repair system then works to heal the holes by creating new collagen and elastin fibers. Increasing the amount of collagen can lead to a skin-plumping effect, potentially improving the look of scarred skin, fine lines, wrinkles, uneven skin tone, and sun damage. The cosmetic practice has existed for over 20 years in various forms.

Microneedling is often advertised as a treatment that can tackle multiple skin issues simultaneously.

• Improve skin texture: Whether you’re dealing with fine lines, wrinkles, acne scars, large pores, or stretch marks, microneedling is believed to help even overall texture by breaking down tougher stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the skin) and increasing collagen production.
• Improve skin tone: Microneedling may assist with hyperpigmentation (darkening of parts of the skin caused by excessive melanin production) and sun damage. During the healing process, damaged skin peels off, revealing fresh new skin beneath, much like a chemical peel.

Although at-home microneedling kits are now available, the most trusted and effective form of microneedling happens in a dermatologist or plastic surgeon’s office. Here are the steps a microneedling patient will typically experience.

1. 1. Research. Before getting a professional microneedling treatment, verify that the person performing the microneedling is certified by the American Board of Dermatology. Microneedling may be performed by a nurse, dermatologist, plastic surgeon, or an aesthetician. The certification is the best assurance that the professional knows what they’re doing. Before the microneedling treatment, you may undergo a consultation during which a trusted skin professional can help you decide if microneedling is right for you.
2. 2. Pre-treatment care. Some professionals recommend avoiding anything that can thin your blood—including alcohol and aspirin—for up to two weeks leading up to your procedure, to prevent facial bruising. Talk to your provider about any medications you take, and whether you need to make any changes to your routine before microneedling.
3. 3. Extractions. Microneedling is not recommended for active blemishes, so professional extractions may be necessary before the treatment. A skincare professional should only perform these treatments—do not pop your pimples at home before a microneedling session.
4. 4. Numbing cream. Prior to the procedure, the professional may apply a numbing cream such as lidocaine to prevent pain during and immediately after the treatment. How much pain a person feels depends on the individual and their face sensitivity.
5. 5. Microneedling. The professional will sterilize the microneedling devices, which may be in the form of a roller or pen. They will then glide the dermaroller over the individual’s face, making small cuts in the skin, which may cause pain or bleeding.
6. 6. After-care. Once the microneedling is done, the professional may apply moisturizers or serums to help heal the skin or enhance the procedure. The cuts in your skin allow active ingredients to penetrate deep into the dermis layer. This means that any products used after microneedling should be approved by your skincare professional. The use of sunscreen, retinol, alpha-hydroxy acids, and makeup is generally not recommended. Hydrating serums and collagen-stimulating peptides may be recommended. As you recover from microneedling, avoid sweating, which can introduce a bacterial infection, and stay hydrated by drinking lots of water.
   
7. 7. Follow-up visits. Microneedling typically requires several treatments, spaced at least six weeks apart, in order to see noticeable results.

Proponents of microneedling say that the treatment provides impressive results for a wide range of skin troubles.

• Stimulates collagen. As we age, our skin produces less collagen, the protein that holds our tissues together and keeps our skin elastic. This leads to increased visibility of scars, fine lines, and wrinkles. Microneedling is one of the few options for stimulating the body’s own production of collagen. The needle pricks of microneedling signal the body to produce collagen to heal the wounds and push off old skin.
• Increases rate of cell turnover. Skin cell turnover is the process by which new skin cells are produced to replace existing skin cells. As humans age, the rate of cell turnover lessens. Microneedling may provide some of the benefits of cell turnover for people whose skin would naturally heal more slowly.
• Allows for absorption. Professional microneedling goes deeper than DIY microneedling, with the needles reaching below the top epidermis layer and into the lower dermis layer. The small cuts allow external applications, such as moisturizers and serums, to reach deeper than they might otherwise. This is why microneedling is sometimes paired with other treatments, such as the application of platelet-rich plasma (PRP).
• Faster and more affordable than other treatments. In-office microneedling can cost $100–700, depending on the size of the area treated. The cost is typically much less than that of some chemical peels and most laser treatments, which can cost thousands of dollars. Microneedling may also have a shorter recovery time (24–48 hours) than other treatments.

Microneedling is a relatively low-tech procedure: It involves small needles, rather than lasers and complicated machinery. This fact has led to a boom in at-home microneedling kits, but there are a few things to consider when weighing whether to go to a professional’s office or do it yourself.

• Cost: At-home microneedling kits are typically much cheaper than in-office options, ranging from $35 for a simple at-home roller to $350 for a luxury at-home kit. In the office, you should expect to pay anywhere from $100 to $700 for a single session.
• Size of needles: The needles used in at-home microneedling devices are typically much shallower than those used in professional offices. That means they will only reach the epidermis layer of the skin and not the deeper dermis layer, making at-home treatments less effective. At-home rollers feature needless up to 0.5 millimeters long, while professionals use needles up to 2 millimeters long.
• Safety: As with most cosmetic procedures, there are some risks involved with microneedling. Working with a licensed microneedling professional will ensure that the process goes as smoothly as possible.

While generally considered safe, there are some potential side effects associated with microneedling. People with active skin infections, skin diseases, or a history of scarring or poor wound healing, should not undergo microneedling procedures. If you have eczema, rosacea, or sensitive skin microneedling may cause flare-ups. Talk to a skincare professional before trying microneedling.

1. 1. Pain: Many people find the experience of microneedling to be painful. This will depend on your individual level of sensitivity.
2. 2. Bleeding and bruising: Bleeding is one of the most common side effects of microneedling. As small as the needles are, professional microneedles can penetrate deeply enough to cause bleeding. If you take blood thinners, you may be at increased risk for bleeding and bruising.
3. 3. Irritation and swelling: After microneedling, the skin may be red, irritated, tight, and/or swollen in the hours or days following a microneedling treatment. This typically represents a normal part of the healing process.
4. 4. Dryness and sensitivity: Since the micro holes created by microneedling are essentially wounds, the skin may become sensitive and may dry as it heals, even flaking and itching. This is why staying hydrated both outside (with serums and moisturizers) and inside (by drinking water) is such an important part of the healing process.
5. 5. Bacterial infection: After a microneedling treatment, the skin is much more susceptible to infection. If you are prone to cold sores, your doctor may prescribe antibiotics to prevent infection post-microneedling.

Individuals experience different levels of sensitivity to ingredients found in various skincare products. To prevent adverse reactions, consult a dermatologist before applying a new product to your skin. This article is for educational and informational purposes only, and is not a substitute for professional medical advice.

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