Tyrolean Traverse Climbing Tips: How to Do a Tyrolean Traverse

The Tyrolean traverse is a climbing technique that lets a climber pass between two high points by inching along a taut rope. The Tyrolean traverse technique comes in handy in rock climbing, mountaineering, caving, river crossing, and technical tree climbing. Even a zip line functions like a Tyrolean traverse because it connects two high points with a sturdy metal rope.

The Tyrolean traverse is said to originate from Tyrol in the Austrian Alps, where climbers have traditionally used it to traverse gaps and river crossings.

Experienced climbers use the Tyrolean traverse in a number of situations.

1. 1. Navigating from a detached pillar to the main wall: Some rock climbers ascend detached pillars that are many meters away from the main wall of a climb. One such example is the Lost Arrow Spire in Yosemite National Park. Expert climbers use the Tyrolean traverse to abseil from the spire to the main wall of Yosemite Point Buttress—with the Yosemite Valley floor hundreds of meters below. Other famous sites for Tyrolean traverses include the Totem Pole sea stack in Tasmania and the Castleton Tower in Utah.
2. 2. River crossings: Backcountry camping can involve crossing large rivers without bridges or boats. Some river trails feature fixed wires that connect one side of the river to another. Hikers clip into these wires using a carabiner, and they slowly make their way across the river. Some of these wires have pulleys that help the traverser along their way.
3. 3. Rescues: A Tyrolean rescue uses a Tyrolean traverse to ferry an injured climber across a suspended line, almost always with the help of a pulley.

To safely execute a Tyrolean traverse, make sure you have the right equipment on hand.

1. 1. Quickdraws: Quickdraws are two connected carabiners that allow you to attach your rope to anchors.
2. 2. Rope: Use a quickdraw to hold your body close to the climbing line and a longer sling as a backup.
3. 3. Security mechanisms: Climbers use some combination of carabiners, ascenders, webbing, and climbing harnesses to attach to the main support line. You can also use a Prusik knot to secure yourself with ordinary rope.
4. 4. Pulleys: A pulley is optional in most Tyrolean traverses, but it can help you cross without over-exerting yourself.

Tyrolean traverses can be a relatively simple climbing maneuver, provided you are safely secure to the line.

1. 1. Traverse without your backpack. Do not attempt to rappel across a line while wearing a pack. You should directly attach your pack to the line itself using a daisy chain that connects to your belay loop.
2. 2. Clip in to the main climbing line. Using some combination of webbing, ascenders, carabiners, Prusik knots, and climbing harnesses, securely attach yourself to the main climbing line. Clip in ahead of your backpack; you will be pulling it behind you.
3. 3. Grab onto the line. You can either traverse the line using your hands alone (which is a bit faster) or your hands and legs (which is more secure). Either way, you will have your back facing the ground and you will look up at the line, which you're attached to via your climbing harness. If you plan to use your legs, start by grabbing the line with your hands and then use your abdominal core to lift your legs up to the line. Let your core do the work—not your back.
4. 4. Begin moving. Most climbers like to quickly move along a Tyrolean traverse, but do not move so quickly that your body starts swinging back and forth. This can loosen your grip on the line and make it difficult to safely reach the other side.
5. 5. Continue steadily. Just as you did when you grabbed onto the line, let your abdominal core do as much work as possible to get you to the other side. Relying too much on arm muscles can lead to rapid fatigue. Relying too much on your back can lead to injury. Traversing is a full-body exercise, but your abdominal muscles can handle a heavy load in a way that other muscle groups may not.
6. 6. Disembark safely. When you reach the far end of the rope, make sure you have a steady foothold to stand on. Remain clipped in to the line until you know you are back on stable ground.

Climbing is a high-impact activity with an elevated risk of serious injury. Practice, proper guidance, and extensive safety precautions are essential when attempting a climbing pursuit. This article is for educational and informational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional instruction or guidance.

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