4 Types of Climbing Shoes: How to Choose Climbing Shoes
Written by MasterClass
Last updated: Oct 15, 2021 • 4 min read
Experienced climbers know that the right rock climbing shoes can sustain you throughout a challenging climb, while poorly chosen climbing shoes can impede your footwork.
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What Are Climbing Shoes?
Climbing shoes are specially crafted performance shoes used in rock climbing. They are typically made of both leather and synthetic materials and secured with velcro, although lace-up shoes also work for certain purposes. The market is filled with climbing shoe options from established brands as well as newer brands with their own dedicated users. Some are specialized for specific types of climbing.
4 Types of Climbing Shoes
Most climbing shoes fit into one of four categories.
- 1. Trad climbing shoes: Trad climbing shoes are the closest thing to an all-around pair of shoes. They have flat bottoms, which in the climbing community means they have little downturn and are non-aggressive shoes. They have a narrow toe box that works wells on crack climbs. Many have leather uppers and laces.
- 2. Sport climbing shoes: Compared to most trad climbing shoes, sport climbing shoes are stiffer with more of a downturn. Sport climbers don't navigate as many thin cracks as trad climbers, but they still need a fairly thin toe box for jamming. Both velcro shoes and lace-ups exist in the sport climbing market.
- 3. Gym climbing shoes: Gym climbing shoes are appropriate for beginner climbers and regular gym-goers alike. Some gym shoes have synthetic uppers; others are made with unlined leather. Choose a pair of gym climbing shoes with a comfortable fit and a shape that follows the shape of your foot. Comfortable shoes engender good climbing technique.
- 4. Bouldering shoes: The typical bouldering shoe is a highly downturned shoe with a snug fit, a tight heel cup, and a soft midsole. They are notably softer shoes than those used on sport climbs and trad climbs because bouldering requires more of an emphasis on feeling the terrain beneath you. These high-performance shoes are not designed for comfort; they are designed for rapid ascents up boulder problems with ample hooking and scaling overhangs. Most are slip-on varieties with velcro closures.
3 Features of Climbing Shoes
Like many other forms of climbing gear, different climbing shoes use different materials, but all climbing shoes have the same three features.
- 1. Uppers: The main structure of a climbing shoe is made of either leather or synthetic material. Leather shoes offer long-term durability and comfort because they will stretch to fit the shape of your foot. Synthetic shoes tend to be better for moisture regulation. They are also stiffer, and a stiff shoe can be helpful on some sport routes and boulder problems.
- 2. Soles: Much like street shoes, climbing shoes use rubber soles. Some forms of climbing shoe rubber are stickier than others. Sticky rubber can help with tricky maneuvers like big toe hooks, but it tends to wear out faster.
- 3. Closure systems: Climbing shoes secure in different ways. Many climbing shoes use velcro closures, which fasten easily. However, full-size velcro strips can take up a lot of space in the toe box area, which can lead to problems when it's time for toe hooking and crack climbing. Lace-up shoes are less convenient, but they tend to last longer.
How to Choose the Right Climbing Shoes
With so many climbing shoes on the market, you'll want to use a practical approach to selecting the right shoe for you.
- 1. Consider your climbing goals. Different types of climbing will call for a different type of shoe. Approach shoes, or shoes used to hike in to a technical climb, can have a wide toe box and thick rubber soles. Shoes for multi-pitch climbs need to provide all-day comfort since you could be using them for hours on end. You may need one type of shoe or more depending on the type of climb you’re attempting.
- 2. When in doubt, start with multi-purpose shoes. A multi-purpose climbing shoe with a moderate downturn and a decent amount of stretching will serve most of your purposes. It can handle technical maneuvers like smearing and toe hooking. It can also handle more conventional sport climbs and jaunts up an indoor climbing wall.
- 3. As you gain experience, try specialized shoes. Experienced climbers use different pairs of shoes for different tasks. They might pull out a pair of asymmetric, aggressive, pointy-toed shoes for steep sport climbs. Then, for long routes or overhanging trad climbing, they might use a different pair with a stiff midsole and almost no downturn. A multi-purpose shoe will cover most of your bases, but as you gain experience and climb more frequently, specialized shoes can help improve your climbing technique.
- 4. When in doubt, get a snug-fitting shoe. In most cases, the best climbing shoes for your feet will be a half-size down from your street shoe size. This is particularly true for boulderers, but all climbers should generally err on the side of snug for their first pair of climbing shoes.
Before You Start Climbing
Climbing is a high-impact activity with an elevated risk of serious injury. Practice, proper guidance, and extensive safety precautions are essential when attempting a climbing pursuit. This article is for educational and informational purposes only, and is not a substitute for professional instruction or guidance.
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