Learn How to Make Tintype Photos at Home

Also referred to as ferrotype or melainotype, tintype is a style of photography that uses the wet collodion process—a dark lacquer or enamel applied to a thin sheet of metal shortly before exposure—to produce images. This process creates very underexposed negative images that appear as contrasted positive images when exposed to the developing solution. The tintype process results in a strong photographic image that instantly draws the viewer’s eyes toward the subject.

During the early days of photography, long exposure times and very still sitters were necessary to capture a clear portrait. However, with advancements and improvements frequently made to the photography process, it wasn’t long until more efficient alternatives were developed.

• Invention: One such development was the tintype, invented by Adolphe-Alexandre Martin in 1850s France. Evolving from its predecessor the ambrotype, which was the first photography method to use the wet plate collodion process to develop images, the tintype process used iron plates rather than glass plates as its backing. (A dry tintype was eventually introduced, using a photographic emulsion made of gelatin instead of collodion.) Tintypes were similar to the popular daguerreotypes, except they were much less expensive and quicker to produce, which means subjects would no longer have to sit for hours on end for their portraits.
• Civil War: Due to tintypes’ metallic composition, they were sturdy and durable enough to be shipped to loved ones. This made tintype portraits a popular choice for soldiers of the American Civil War.
• Cabinet cards: Although tintypes were widely affordable and popular during the mid- to late-nineteenth century, they were soon replaced by cartes de visite, or cabinet cards—images printed on paper—but continued to be widely used by street photographers and fair artists.

During the tintype photographic process, a metal plate is lacquered with a collodion emulsion, then fixed into a slide. The slide is then fitted inside the camera while still wet. The photo is taken, imprinting the negative image onto the plate. This negative must be immediately developed. Fixer is applied to the developing photo, turning the negative into positive, which is then sealed with varnish.

Tintype photography involves a number of steps that require working with toxic, dangerous chemicals. If you’ve decided to try tintype photography for the first time, purchase a tintype kit with approved substances.

• Large format camera: Your camera film cartridge will need to be large enough to fit the metal plate. Most tintype photographers use a 4x5 camera.
• Metal engraving plate: The tintype plate will be what you coat with your emulsion. It can be made of iron or aluminum, but it should be dark black color. If dark metal plates aren’t available, you can spray-paint them black yourself.
• Collodion: Collodion is the chemical solution used to coat the plate.
• Silver nitrate: To make the plate light-sensitive, you’ll dip it in a bath of silver nitrate and water.
• Photo developer: Photo developer is the substance you pour over your tintype image to help process it.
• Fixer: This solution is the last step of the development process. Historically, tintype photographers used potassium cyanide as a fixer, but today some photographers prefer to use sodium thiosulfate, which is less toxic.
• Varnish: Varnish is used to seal the delicate image onto the plate.
• Extra lights: Your coated plate will reduce your camera’s ISO to 1 or 2, which means you’ll have to compensate for lighting.
• Fixing trays: These trays will be where you quickly process your photos (as you only have fifteen minutes to execute the entire process). You’ll need separate ones for each solution.
• A darkroom: The silver nitrate will make your film light-sensitive, which can result in overexposure. Be sure to process and prepare your photos in a dark or red room.
• Safety gear: Tintypes involve the use of toxic chemicals that can be harmful if they touch the skin or are inhaled. Make sure you have an apron, safety goggles, gloves, a mask, and plenty of newspapers to line your workstation.
• Stable temperatures: The tintype process is extremely temperature-sensitive. Working in a location that is too hot or too cold can result in ruined photos.

Making tintype photos is a complex process that only leaves you with about fifteen minutes to produce a usable image. The process takes a lot of practice and testing, which requires patience in addition to the right tools and safety equipment. Here’s how to create your own tintypes.

1. 1. Coat the metal plate. Before you load your film cartridge, you’ll need to coat the metal plate in the collodion emulsion. While wearing safety gloves, hold the plate in one hand and use the other hand to pour the liquid over the metal, gently tilting the plate so that the entire surface area is coated with the thick solution.
2. 2. Bathe the plate. Prepare the silver nitrate bath and make sure the room is properly dark, as the nitrate will cause light sensitivity. Let your plate sit in the bath for about five minutes.
3. 3. Insert the plate. Remove your plate from the bath and insert it into the plate holder, which is inserted directly into the camera. The plate should still be wet when you place it inside the cartridge.
4. 4. Shoot the image. Once you’ve loaded up your camera, it’s time to take your shot. Set up your image prior to shooting to minimize the amount of time it takes for you to get the right shot, as you need to capture the image before the solution dries. Adjust the lighting to compensate for the dark background of the plate—this is where your extra lights come in.
5. 5. Develop the image. Once you’ve taken your photo, return to your darkroom to develop the image. Place the plate in a tray and pour the photo developer solution over the tray until the image develops to your desired contrast (you can use a water bath to halt development, similar to the process of blanching). Remove the photo and place it in another tray, filled with fixing solution.
6. 6. Let the plate dry. Once all of the chemicals have been applied, leave the plate in place to dry. Keep the plate flat, as a propped-up position may encourage the drying emulsions to run. Once the plate is dry, coat it with varnish to seal in the image.

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