Slab Climbing Guide: 5 Popular Slab Climbing Techniques

Slab climbing is a form of rock climbing in which the rock face is a slab that is at less than a 90-degree angle from the ground. Slab climbing, also known as friction climbing, prioritizes foot work over hand and footholds, as opposed to vertical climbs or overhang climbs which often have foot and hand holds.

When climbing a slab, climbers use foot placement techniques such as inside edging, outside edging, and smearing, all of which create friction between the rubber of their climbing shoes and tiny ridges and crevices in the rock wall. Slab climbs are some of the most demanding climbs in the world. Slab climbing routes often require the climber to wear specialty pre-drilled boots to help themselves stick to the wall.

Slab climbing took longer to develop than other forms of rock climbing. Rock climbers typically use a crack in the rock face to anchor safety equipment, and crack climbing is more likely to be done on vertical or overhanging rock faces. Slab routes were often more difficult as slab climbers were required to climb for longer periods of time without the assistance of bolts and anchoring equipment.

In 1927, Laurent Grivel invented the first rock drill and expansion bolt, making slab climbing much easier for sport climbing. In 1980, slab climbing became more accessible with the invention of the "sticky rubber" climbing shoe, allowing climbers to get a better grip against the slab. Today, many places in the US are popular destinations for slab climbing, like California’s Joshua Tree National Park, Moab in Utah, and Looking Glass Mountain in North Carolina.

Here is an overview of some climbing techniques popularly used in slab climbing.

1. 1. Practice smearing. Smearing is a technique used in slab climbing that involves smearing the inside or outside edge of your foot against the surface of the rock for friction. This technique allows you to anchor yourself to the rock wall on the soles of your feet, instead of using typical footholds. It is an important technique to master in slab climbing.
2. 2. Take high steps. Slab climbing becomes easier when you move confidently and swiftly. This means taking larger steps. Find a high position to anchor your foot, then quickly shift your weight into that foot and step up. The more you practice, the more confident you will become which will make slab climbing easier.
3. 3. Maintain your center of gravity. You want to keep your center of gravity balanced over your feet, keeping pressure going down through the balls of the feet. If you lean too close to the wall, your feet are more likely to slip off the wall. This is why slab climbers typically lean towards the wall with their hips sticking out from the rock.
4. 4. Keep your arms stable. Your arms are important for maintaining your balance against the wall as you climb as well as pulling your weight up. Keep your arms stable and flexible to keep a consistent balance so that you don’t collapse against the wall.
5. 5. Choose the right shoes. Stiff shoes work best for slab climbing because they retain more of a grip against the rock wall when you are smearing your feet. Make sure your shoes are clean and fit well before setting out to climb.

Climbing is a high-impact activity with an elevated risk of serious injury. Practice, proper guidance, and extensive safety precautions are essential when attempting a climbing pursuit. This article is for educational and informational purposes only, and is not a substitute for professional instruction or guidance.

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