Prusik Knot Guide: How to Tie a Prusik Knot for Rock Climbing
Written by MasterClass
Last updated: Jan 29, 2022 • 2 min read
The Prusik knot is a type of friction hitch used in rock climbing that creates an easily adjustable cord loop attached to a climbing rope.
Learn From the Best
What Is a Prusik Knot?
The Prusik knot (or Prusik hitch) is a knot made out of a loop or rope that attaches to a different rope. To create the Prusik knot, you must first make a loop from a length of cord using the double fisherman's knot or triple fisherman's knot. You can also purchase pre-sewn Prusik loops to avoid having to create one using an accessory cord. They are primarily used in rock climbing, mountaineering, and caving, especially during an ascent.
As the loop is weighted, the Prusik cord knot strengthens against the rope which is why the Prusik knot is considered a type of friction hitch. Friction hitches create an autoblock system, where the cord knot attached to the rope can be adjusted by hand when ascending or rappelling but will stop if the loop is suddenly weighted.
3 Uses of Prusik Knots
Here is an overview of just a few of the many uses of the Prusik knot.
- 1. Climbing: Prusik knots have a number of uses in climbing. You can create footholds or seats with them when you’re ascending, or connect carabiners with them. It is also popular to use when climbers are abseiling, rappelling, or belaying.
- 2. Camping: You can hang a tarp to create some shelter during a camping trip using a Prusik knot. You can also use it as a hammock ridgeline to holds items like water bottles.
- 3. Rescue operations: The strong Prusik knot can come in handy during rescue missions, because it can sustain large amounts of weight very easily. Furthermore, the Prusik knot offers plenty of fall protection for climbers, because it is very secure and difficult to undo.
How to Tie a Prusik Knot
Here is a brief overview of how to tie a Prusik knot.
- 1. Create a double fisherman’s knot. Take the working end of the rope, and use a double fisherman’s knot to loop the rope to itself.
- 2. Wrap your loop around the cord or structure you want to fasten it to. Once you have your loop of cord, wrap your loop around the fixed rope or pole you want to attach your Prusik knot to.
- 3. Pass your junction point through the rope. Holding your rope where you've made your fisherman's knot, pass the junction point through the other end of the loop, continuing to wrap it around the main rope. Repeat this wrapping and looping process three times.
- 4. Complete your knot. Feed the loop's junction point through the other end of the loop one more time and pull to tighten. Your Prusik knot is complete.
Before You Start Climbing
Climbing is a high-impact activity with an elevated risk of serious injury. Practice, proper guidance, and extensive safety precautions are essential when attempting a climbing pursuit. This article is for educational and informational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional instruction or guidance.
Ready to Give “On the Rocks” a Whole New Meaning?
Take your climbing mastery to new heights with the MasterClass Annual Membership and exclusive video lessons from Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell, two of the world’s most accomplished climbers. Together they’ll help you get a grasp on climbing holds, balance, footwork, and more, plus teach you the ins and outs of ethical outdoor exploration.