Madhur Jaffrey’s Potato a Thousand Ways

Using one, two, or three spices, you can transform simple potatoes into four different dishes. Spiced with just cumin seeds, the tuber becomes an Indian hash brown, perfect as a breakfast side. Red chilies, mustard seeds, and curry leaves are a popular flavor profile in the South; cumin seeds, mustard seeds, and sesame seeds are preferred in the North.

“The thing with India is that it’s always been split into different states that speak their own languages, have their own culture, have their own clothing,” Madhur says. “You’ll find that the food varies about as much as it does in the countries of Europe.” These four potato dishes all start with boiling two large waxy potatoes until tender and dicing them into half-inch chunks. Then, they get tossed in a tadka, the Indian technique of cooking a mixture of spices in fat to release their essential oils.

1. For the potatoes with cumin seeds: Heat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in a medium frying pan set over medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot, sprinkle 1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds in an even layer. Let them sizzle in the oil for about 30 seconds. Add the diced potatoes, and season with salt. Stir-fry until they’re golden brown, for 5–7 minutes or so. Taste, and adjust the seasoning as needed. Serve immediately.
2. For the southern potatoes: Heat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in a medium frying pan set over medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot, add 1 teaspoon whole brown mustard seeds and wait for them to pop. Once the mustard seeds begin to sputter, add 2 dried red chilies, breaking them into 2 or 3 small pieces each, and shake the pan to coat the chilies in the oil. Toast the chilies for about 1 minute, or until they turn dark. Then add 8–10 fresh curry leaves. Continue to shake the pan, standing back so as not to be splashed by the hot oil. Add the potatoes, and stir to combine. Add ¼ cup of water, and season with salt. Turn the heat to medium-low. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the water evaporates, for 5–7 minutes or so. Taste, and adjust the seasoning as needed. Serve immediately.
3. For the northern potatoes: Heat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in a medium frying pan set over medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot, add 1 teaspoon of whole cumin seeds and 1 teaspoon whole black mustard seeds. When the mustard seeds begin to pop, add the sesame seeds, which might pop, too. Add the potatoes, and stir-fry until they’re golden brown, then add ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper. Stir well to combine, and remove the pan from the heat. Season with salt to taste and a squeeze of lemon juice. Serve immediately.
4. For the dosa potatoes: Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a medium frying pan set over medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot, add ½ teaspoon chana dal. After 15 seconds, add ½ teaspoon urad dal. When the dals begin to take on color, add 1 teaspoon whole black mustard seeds. Once the seeds begin to pop, add 8–10 fresh curry leaves followed by ½ cup chopped onion, 1 tablespoon fresh ginger, and 1–2 fresh hot green chilies. Stir for 2–3 minutes, and add a splash of water. Cover and cook until the onions are soft. Add the cooked potatoes, and stir well to combine. Cook for 2–3 minutes more, stirring continuously and adding more water as needed, aiming for a loose, “floaty” consistency. Add ½ teaspoon ground turmeric, and season with salt to taste. Finish with ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves. Serve immediately.