Joanne Chang’s Pain aux Raisins Recipe

For the brioche dough:

• ¼ cup ice cold water
• 1½ packages (3¼ teaspoons) active dry yeast
• 2¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
• 2¼ cups bread flour
• ⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
• 1 tablespoon kosher salt
• 5 large eggs, cold
• 1 cup plus 6 tablespoons (2¾ sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 10 to 12 pieces

For the pastry cream:

• 2½ cups whole milk
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• ½ cup cake flour
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 8 egg yolks
• 2 teaspoons vanilla extract

For the vanilla glaze:

• 2 cups confectioners’ sugar
• 4–6 tablespoons water
• ½ teaspoon vanilla extract

For assembly:

• 2 cups golden raisins

Notes: The total time does not include up to 19 hours and 30 minutes of inactive time. Additionally, divide the basic brioche dough recipe in half to make only 8 pain aux raisins, and save the other half for many brioche variations, including brioche buns and brioche au chocolat.

Make the brioche dough:

1. 1

   In a standing mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the water, yeast, all-purpose flour, bread flour, sugar, and salt, and mix the ingredients on low speed.

2. 2

   Add the eggs to the mixture one at a time, and then increase the speed slightly.

3. 3

   Beat the mixture until all of the flour is incorporated and the dough is a pale yellow color, about 3 minutes.

4. 4

   Beat on low speed once again until the dough comes together in one ball that’s smooth and springy to the touch, about 3–5 minutes.

5. 5

   Turn the mixer to medium speed and add the butter piece by piece. Wait for each piece to incorporate before adding the next.

6. 6

   Continue mixing on low speed for 6–8 minutes and up to 10 minutes, stopping the mixer occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl, until all of the butter is thoroughly incorporated.

7. 7

   Continue mixing on medium speed for 6–12 minutes, pausing the mixer every few minutes to scrape the dough off the bottom of the bowl and the dough hook. The dough will eventually come together in a single stretchy mass as the butter gets absorbed and the gluten develops.

8. 8

   Increase the mixer speed to medium-high. In the last few minutes of mixing, the dough should start to gather together and slap around on the inside of the bowl. When the dough is done, it should be smooth and glossy, and hold together as one piece.

9. 9

   In a large bowl, let your dough rise (or proof). Cover it tightly with plastic wrap, and place it in the refrigerator for at least 6 hours and up to overnight. The dough should double in size.

Make the pastry cream:

1. 1

   In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, heat the milk until it’s scalding. Tiny bubbles should start to form around the edge of the pan, but the milk shouldn’t boil.

2. 2

   As the milk heats, in a small bowl, stir together the sugar, flour, and salt. In a separate mixing bowl, whisk the egg yolks. Slowly whisk the beaten eggs into the dry ingredients until the flour becomes thick and pasty.

3. 3

   Pour the hot milk into the egg-flour mixture a little bit at a time, whisking constantly.

4. 4

   Once all of the milk has been incorporated into the egg-flour mixture, return it to the saucepan and place it over medium heat. Whisk the mixture vigorously and continuously until it thickens and comes to a boil, about 3 minutes.

5. 5

   When the mixture bubbles, whisk it vigorously for 10 seconds, and remove the pan from the heat.

6. 6

   Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a small heatproof bowl.

7. 7

   Stir in the vanilla extract, and cover the bowl with plastic wrap placed directly on the surface of the cream. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours or up to 3 days.

Assemble and bake the pain aux raisins:

1. 1

   On a lightly floured surface, turn out your proofed and chilled brioche dough. Press it down to flatten into a rough rectangle.

2. 2

   Flip the dough over, and flick flour across the top of the dough to ensure that nothing sticks to it.

3. 3

   Using a rolling pin, roll the dough into two 16x12-inch rectangles that are each about a ¼- to a ½-inch thick. Take care when rolling the dough, working from the center, and pushing out. Rotate the dough 90 degrees and repeat. Once you’ve finished rolling out the dough, brush off any remaining flour and trim the edges into a neat rectangle.

4. 4

   Spread the pastry cream across the surface of the dough. Sprinkle an even layer of golden raisins on top of the pastry cream.

5. 5

   On the long side of the dough, starting at the edge farthest from you, fold over a small lip of dough, about 1 inch, then start rolling it like a jelly roll. Leave about 2 inches of dough unrolled at the edge closest to you.

6. 6

   Using your fingertips, stretch and thin the lip of the dough so that when you finish rolling, the lip adheres to the roll with a smooth edge.

7. 7

   Trim off about a ¼ inch from either end of the finished roll.

8. 8

   Use a bench scraper or a chef’s knife to cut each roll into 8 equally sized dough rounds, each about 2 inches wide.

9. 9

   Arrange the buns on a parchment paper–lined baking sheet, spaced about 2 inches apart.

10. 10

    Proof the buns. Cover the baking tray with plastic wrap, and place it in a warm spot to proof for about 2 hours, or until the dough has doubled in size and is light and fluffy.

11. 11

    Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

12. 12

    Bake the pain aux raisins until they’re a light golden brown, 20–25 minutes.

13. 13

    Allow the buns to cool on the baking sheet, set on a wire rack, for 20–30 minutes.

14. 14

    As the buns cool, make the vanilla glaze. In a small bowl, whisk together the sugar, 4 tablespoons of the water, and the vanilla extract until smooth. Add more water as needed to thin the glaze enough to make it spreadable.

15. 15

    Generously brush the tops of the still-warm pastries with the vanilla glaze, and serve.

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