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Chef Mashama Bailey’s Seafood Middlin Recipe

Written by MasterClass

Last updated: Nov 15, 2024 • 3 min read

Seafood middlins is one of Chef Mashama Bailey’s favorite dishes served at The Grey. “These ingredients come from the water, and African Americans have a deep connection to the water,” she says of the shrimp, fish, and rice used to make Seafood Middlin.

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A Brief History of Midlins

Middlins, also known as broken rice or rice grits, are beloved throughout the U.S. today, and you’ll find them served at celebrated fine-dining restaurants in the American South. But the broken pieces of rice weren’t always treasured ingredients.

To understand the complex history of this ingredient, you must look to slavery in South Carolina, North Carolina, and Georgia, where West Africans from the Senegambia region were brought specifically for their expertise in cultivating the rice crop that would become known as Carolina Gold. That enslaved skilled labor formed the basis of the local economy for nearly 200 years; Carolina Gold was even exported to places throughout Europe and Asia.

A by-product of the mortar-and-pestle polishing process, the middlins were considered unsellable leftovers that were therefore left to enslaved cooks to turn into something delicious. Those rejected pieces became foundational to cooking in America’s Lowcountry (the region along South Carolina’s coast), as their creamy texture is perfect for soaking up rich stews like the one Chef Bailey makes here. Carolina Gold fell out of production in the twentieth century but was reintroduced in recent years to resounding acclaim.

While middlins are very starchy, you won’t rinse them in this recipe because the starchiness helps bind the ingredients (like a risotto). Chef Bailey serves a version of this dish at the Grey.

Chef Mashama Bailey’s Seafood Midlins Recipe

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16 Ratings | Rate Now

makes

prep time

30 min

total time

2 hr 35 min

cook time

2 hr 5 min

Ingredients

For the shrimp stock:

For the Middlin:

  1. 1

    Make the shrimp stock. In a large pot, bring 2 quarts of water to a boil.

  2. 2

    Add the shrimp shells and boil until the water turns golden brown, about 40 minutes.

  3. 3

    Strain the liquid and discard the shells.

  4. 4

    Bring the stock to a low simmer and let cook for another 40 minutes.

  5. 5

    Meanwhile, peel and devein the shrimp, and set aside the shells.

  6. 6

    Roughly chop the shrimp, put them on a plate, and place in the refrigerator until ready to use.

  7. 7

    In a wide-bottom saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat.

  8. 8

    Add the celery, shallots, onions, and a pinch of salt.

  9. 9

    Add more olive oil to coat, about 2 additional tablespoons.

  10. 10

    Sweat the vegetables until they’re translucent and softened, about 5 minutes.

  11. 11

    After 5 minutes, add the rice grits to the saucepan with another pinch of salt.

  12. 12

    Stir the rice grits so they’re well incorporated with the oil and vegetables, and toast for about 5 minutes.

  13. 13

    Add the tomato paste, and stir to evenly coat the rice grits.

  14. 14

    Add the saffron, and stir to incorporate.

  15. 15

    Add the white wine to the saucepan, stir, and continue to cook until the wine has nearly evaporated and the aroma shifts from pungent to sweet, about 6 minutes.

  16. 16

    After 6 minutes, begin ladling the simmering shrimp stock into the saucepan.

  17. 17

    Start with 5 ladles (or about 6 ounces of stock), then cook at a simmer, stirring until the rice grits absorb the stock, about 3 minutes.

  18. 18

    Once the first few ladles are fully absorbed, add another ladle and stir until the stock starts to evaporate and the rice grits soften, about 10 minutes.

  19. 19

    Continue this process until the rice grits are about 80 percent cooked through, roughly 20 minutes.

  20. 20

    If the rice grits begin to stick to the bottom of the pot, add a bit more liquid and gently stir. You can also turn the heat down slightly.

  21. 21

    Once the rice grits are about 80 percent cooked through, taste them. If the rice is cooked but still has a little bit of texture, it’s time to add your seafood.

  22. 22

    Remove the shrimp and diced snapper from the refrigerator and add both to the saucepan. (Since both the shrimp and the snapper have been diced into small pieces, Chef Bailey says they do not need to be at room temperature before cooking.)

  23. 23

    Cook until the fish turns white and becomes firm and the shrimp turns pink, about 6 minutes. Turn off the heat.

  24. 24

    After 6 minutes, add the butter and salt to taste.

  25. 25

    Add the chopped herbs.

  26. 26

    Stir again and spoon into bowls. Garnish with additional herbs and serve.

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