Mashama Bailey’s Oyster Savory Hand Pie Recipe
Written by MasterClass
Last updated: Aug 24, 2024 • 8 min read
“Instead of doing a sweet hand pie—which you normally find in this area—that has apple filling or peach filling, I wanted to do something savory,” Chef Mashama Bailey says. “And I wanted to celebrate the coast.” This led her to use oysters in her unique savory hand pie recipe. Jump to recipe.
Learn From the Best
Meet Chef Mashama Bailey
Mashama Bailey is the James Beard Award–winning chef of The Grey in Savannah, Georgia, a fine-dining restaurant housed in a former Greyhound bus station. After leaving her career in social work to train as a cook in France, Chef Bailey honed her skills in New York City, but she found herself returning to the Southern food that her grandmother made.
“I never really was looking at French chefs or American chefs for inspiration. I was always looking at my family, because I thought that they were the best cooks that I knew.” — Mashama Bailey
What Are Hand Pies?
Hand pies, also called turnovers, are handheld pastries filled with fruit, cheese, meat, or vegetables. They are similar to pasties in the United Kingdom and empanadas in Latin America. Chef Bailey uses a flaky pie crust in her savory hand pie recipe, but you can also experiment with puff pastry. A light brushing of egg wash gives hand pies their signature golden brown crust. You can make hand pies in advance and refrigerate them in an airtight container for later use as an easy weeknight meal or party appetizer.
About Chef Mashama Bailey’s Oyster Hand Pies
When Chef Mashama Bailey first moved to the Georgia coast, she was surprised by the region’s connection to seafood. “One of the very first ingredients that I learned to work with in that region was oysters,” she says. As she researched different preparations (including pickled oysters), Chef Bailey found that the meaty, briny mollusk made for a perfect hand-pie filling.
“I would read books from the 1930s that talked about different ways of serving oysters, either pickling them or roasting them, baking them, or grilling them. But I’ve never really seen ’em in a hand pie.” — Chef Mashama Bailey
Chef Mashama Bailey’s 5 Tips for Making Oyster Hand Pies
Chef Mashama Bailey shares helpful tips for making her savory hand pies.
- 1. Make a fish fumet from leftover fish bones. Chef Bailey’s oyster hand pies include a fish stock made from fish bones, carrots, and celery. Instead of buying fish stock, save your fish scraps and make your own. “If you are really good at filleting fish or taking it off the bone, you can utilize those bones by creating a stock,” Chef Bailey says. “That stock you can save for later, you can eat that day, you can freeze it. It’s just a really good way to utilize all your ingredients.”
- 2. Make sure your roux is nappe. When a sauce is “nappe,” it means it will hold its shape. Chef Bailey says that this helps the sauce “stick to a fork, or stick to a vegetable or a piece of protein.” One way to tell if your roux is nappe is to use the back of your spoon. Chef Bailey says you’ll know your roux is ready when you coat a wooden spoon in the sauce and it’s “kinda standin’ its ground a little bit.”
- 3. Prepare your dough on a large, flat surface. Chef Bailey typically makes her dough on a pastry bench, but emphasizes that you can make dough on any flat surface, from a cutting board to “your dining room table if you don’t have a lotta room in your kitchen.”
- 4. Get your oysters from a reliable source. The oysters used here go into the hand pies raw and finish cooking in the oven, so it’s crucial to get fresh oysters from a reliable source. When shopping for fresh oysters, Chef Bailey says to look for ones that are closed: “You don’t wanna buy oysters that are sort of pried-open, almost like they’re gasping for air,” she says, “That’s a sign that they’re not doin’ so hot.” Ask your fishmonger when the oysters were harvested to ensure freshness.
- 5. Make the pies in advance. “Cooking and entertaining in the same day can just be overwhelming,” Chef Bailey adds. Make the pie dough and filling ahead of time to relieve some of the pressure.
Chef Mashama Bailey’s Oyster Savory Hand Pie Recipe
makes
6 hand piesprep time
1 hr 45 mintotal time
3 hr 45 mincook time
2 hrIngredients
Note: The total time does not include 2 weeks of inactive time.
For the pickled celery:
For the pie dough:
For the fish fumet:
For the filling:
For the garnish:
Make the pickled celery (at least 2 weeks in advance):
- 1
in a stainless steel saucepan set over medium heat, combine all of the pickled celery ingredients except for the celery. Steep the liquid for 30 minutes, then remove it from the heat and allow it to cool completely. Strain the pickle brine before pickling the celery.
- 2
Place the diced celery in a shallow baking dish.
- 3
Pour the brine over the celery until the celery is completely covered. Place a piece of plastic wrap on top of the liquid—not on top of the dish—and refrigerate for at least 2 weeks.
Make the dough (up to 2 days in advance):
- 1
In a small bowl, stir together the ice water and the vinegar, and set aside.
- 2
In a large bowl, combine the flour, sugar, and salt, and mix gently. Transfer half of the dry mixture into a food processor. Add half the butter to the food processor and pulse 5–6 times.
- 3
Add the remaining half of the flour mixture and the remaining butter, taking care to minimize handling to keep the ingredients cool. Pulse another 5–6 times.
- 4
Transfer the dry mixture into the large mixing bowl. The butter should be in pea-size pieces or smaller. Use your hands to break up any pieces that are larger than that.
- 5
Make a well in your dry mixture. Pour in 2 tablespoons of the ice water–vinegar mixture and stir.
- 6
Continue adding 2 tablespoons of the liquid at a time, stirring after each addition, scraping down the sides of the bowl, and folding in the flour.
- 7
After incorporating all of the liquid, pinch the dough. If it holds together but still feels dry, it’s ready. If it’s too dry, add another 1–2 tablespoons of the ice water-vinegar, scraping and folding after each addition. If it’s slightly too wet, add a little flour.
- 8
Lightly flour a flat work surface. Transfer the dough onto the surface and gently knead it into a disc. Wrap the disc tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 2 days.
- 9
When you’re ready to prepare your hand pies, remove the dough from the refrigerator and bring it to room temperature.
- 10
Lightly flour a flat work surface. Place the disc on the work surface and divide it in half. Dust half of the dough with flour. Using a rolling pin, roll the dough until it’s circular and ¼ -inch thick. Ensure throughout that the dough doesn’t stick to the surface top.
- 11
Using a 6-inch-round cutter, cut out 3 circles of dough. Place the dough circles on a sheet tray and transfer the tray to the refrigerator. Repeat the rolling and cutting process with the second half of the dough, and transfer the second set of dough circles to the refrigerator. Let the dough rest while you make the fish fumet and the filling.
Make the fish fumet:
- 1
Pour the oil into a rondeau pan set over low heat. Add the diced vegetables and sweat them with all of the aromatics for about 10 minutes.
- 2
Add the white wine and reduce by ¾, about 7 minutes.
- 3
Add the fish bones, and cover everything in the pan with water. Bring the fumet to a boil, and then reduce to a simmer. Simmer the fumet for 30 minutes.
- 4
Strain the fumet and reduce it further if you’re looking for a more intense flavor.
Start the filling:
- 1
In a medium saucepan, add the fish fumet, heavy cream, and bay leaf. Bring the liquid to a simmer and cook until the liquid has reduced by ⅓, about 15 minutes.
- 2
While the fumet mixture reduces, place a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Melt the butter. Add the onion and fennel, and sweat them until they’re translucent about 5 minutes. Keep stirring gently and keep your eye on the heat—you don’t want to brown the butter.
- 3
After 5 minutes, add the flour to the saucepan to create a roux. Continue to cook over low heat until the flour is fragrant and smells a bit nutty, about 10–15 minutes.
- 4
After 10–15 minutes, add the fish fumet and cream mixture to the roux in small quantities, incorporating the liquid with a whisk with each addition. This helps to avoid flour lumps. Once the fumet is fully incorporated into the roux, bring the mixture to a boil. Cook until the mixture coats the back of a spoon without running, about 10–15 minutes.
- 5
After 10–15 minutes, add the potatoes, pickled celery, fresh tarragon, salt, and, last, the sherry wine to the saucepan. Gently stir to incorporate all of the ingredients. Continue cooking the mixture over low heat for another 3–4 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.
Fill the dough:
- 1
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit and remove the pie discs from the refrigerator.
- 2
Dust a flat work surface with flour, and lay out your dough circles. Each circle should yield 1 hand pie.
- 3
Working on 1 hand pie at a time, spoon about 1½ tablespoons of filling into the center of the dough, then place 2–3 raw oysters on top of the filling.
- 4
Brush the egg wash around the edge of the dough. Fold the pie in half and lightly press down on the edge with your fingers to seal the hand pie. Use a fork to crimp the edge.
- 5
Repeat this process with the remaining 5 circles of dough.
- 6
Place the crimped hand pies on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Using a small knife, create 3 small slits in the top of each pie to allow steam to escape. Be careful to not drag the knife too forcefully.
- 7
Brush each hand pie top with egg wash and then sprinkle with benne seeds. Bake until the pie dough turns golden brown, about 15 minutes. Let the hand pies rest and cool slightly before serving.
Learn How to Cook Authentic Southern Food
When you sign up for the MasterClass Annual Membership, you can join James Beard Award–winning Chef Mashama Bailey as she cooks some of her favorite Southen foods, from her grandmother’s fish and grits to an elevated seafood middlins recipe that honors the ingenuity of enslaved cooks.