Masa de Maíz Tutorial With Gabriela Cámara

Masa de maíz is a corn dough used to make tortillas, tamales, atole, pupusas, gorditas, and many more Latin American dishes. Making masa involves nixtamalizing corn kernels by soaking them in an alkaline solution (such as wood ash, cal, or lye) and then grinding them, traditionally by hand but more often by machine. Masa harina is a dried version of fresh masa.

“In Mexico, corn has a sacred aspect. It’s the sustenance of this part of the world. Frankly—[it’s] the most important ingredient in food.” — Gabriela Cámara

The nixtamalization process is the first step in making masa. It’s a technique Mesoamericans perfected centuries ago: Soak dried corn kernels in a mixture of water and cal, or calcium hydroxide—also known as slaked lime or pickling lime (readily available in many spice shops or online)—until they become soft enough to grind in a mill. The nixtamalized kernels are called hominy.

The word “nixtamalization” comes from the Nahuatl words for “ash” and “dough.”

“Nixtamalization is a process by which the proteins [in corn] become readily accessible for humans.” — Gabriela Cámara

During the process of nixtamalization, the alkali works to increase the bioavailability of niacin (vitamin B3). Nixtamalized corn has more nutritional value than cornmeal or corn flour, making it an excellent staple food.

Heirloom corn refers to native varieties of corn. While the United States primarily grows a monoculture of bright yellow sweet corn, Mexican heirloom varieties come in red, blue, purple, white, or multicolored. Every type has different levels of sugar, starch, and protein. This biodiversity translates to a bounty of recipe options, which Gabriela considers when choosing corn to cook.

“Diversity is one of the most important things to have in mind when one thinks of how to eat, because the most varied diets give you more of the nutritious elements that your body needs.”— Gabriela Cámara

Gabriela uses different corns for different preparations—starchier corns, for example, will make for a fluffier masa, while more fibrous corns lead to a heartier masa; one corn might be better suited to an atole (a hot masa-based drink) than a tortilla.

Gabriela is a champion of using organic heirloom varieties of dried corn to make her masa, meaning you’ll have to avoid the generic or genetically modified breeds found at most supermarkets. For truly high-quality masa, you’ll need to seek out dried corn from a responsible source. Here are Gabriela’s recommendations:

1. 1. Tamoa: Tamoa is a company that partners with traditional farmers in Oaxaca to grow, source, and offer the highest-quality single-origin corn; it sells a variety of colors and breeds online (try the berry-colored Blue Cónico or the slightly sweet Olotillo).
2. 2. Rare Seeds: Rare Seeds is a company that offers several heirloom corns grown in Mexico and the United States, including ruby-hued Papa’s Red; its counterpart, Papa’s Blue; and Chapalote, the oldest variety cultivated in America.
3. 3. Grocery stores: Specialty grocers and Latin markets may also have heirloom corn. Develop a relationship with the staff at your local markets and ask questions to get the best product.

“No tortilla that you heat up will ever be as good as homemade,” Gabriela says. The difference between a fresh tortilla and a store-bought tortilla manifests in several ways.

Homemade tortillas smell sweet and earthy and have a flexible texture—and nothing compares to the pleasure of eating them hot and fresh off the stove. “Making a homemade tortilla just communicates more care into a meal that you’re going to serve,” Gabriela says. “For us Mexicans, it takes you to so many memories because a good meal in Mexico is always accompanied by good tortillas.”

Gabriela walks you through her process for nixtamalizing dried corn kernels and grinding them into masa for tortillas:

Place a large pot of water over high heat and bring it to a boil. Meanwhile, measure ten grams (about two tablespoons) of cal, aka calcium hydroxide. “[Cal] is limestone, which is usually found in nature,” Gabriela says. “It’s a stone that is very soft so people scrape it.” The result is a fine, white powder.

You can find cal, a popular ingredient in pickling recipes, at your local supermarket. Once the water boils, add the cal and stir until it dissolves. The water should look milky.

Measure out one kilogram (about two pounds) of dried heirloom corn (such as Blue Cónico or Olotillo). The type of corn you use will have a big impact on the ultimate texture and flavor of your masa. According to Gabriela, “starchier corns will make for a more fluffy masa.”

Look for a knowledgeable vendor who can steer you toward a corn variety that will deliver the result you want to achieve. Add the corn to the pot and cook it in the boiling water until the kernels have slightly softened and you can peel back the kernel’s skin with your nail, about twenty minutes. The middle should remain hard—overcooked corn doesn’t grind well and will turn into a sticky masa with which you will struggle to handle.

When the corn feels soft on the outside but still hard on the inside, cover the pot with a lid and let it sit at room temperature until completely cool. “I like to leave it overnight,” Gabriela says. “It doesn’t hurt to have it be a little more soaked.”

Drain the corn in a colander and rinse it under cool running water. Gently massage the corn with your hands while rinsing—it will feel pleasantly soft to the touch. Be careful not to over-rinse. “You don’t want to take all of the cal,” Gabriela says, “because the cal gives it a flavor and it also allows you to have a masa that is really malleable.” Once you remove most (but not all) of the outer pulls (pericarp), stop rinsing.

Traditionally, masa is ground in a molino—a large, communal grinder. Although some villages in Latin American countries still operate molinos, you can buy home kitchen–sized, hand-operated grinders from a kitchen supply store. Alternatively, you can use a food processor.

If using a food processor, add the corn and pour in one to two tablespoons of water. Pulse, scraping down the sides of the bowl and adding water as needed, until the masa is finely ground, with a smooth, thick, and slightly sticky texture that holds together in a uniform dough when pressed.

If using a hand grinder, set it up and arrange a bowl beneath its mouth. Place as much corn as will fit without overflowing into the hopper. Add one to two teaspoons of water and begin grinding, gently pressing the corn down into the hopper. Test the texture of the ground masa with your fingers; you may need to adjust the grind or add another spoonful of water to make a finer masa.

If you don’t plan to use the masa right away, shape it into a boule, wrap it tightly in plastic wrap, and store it in the refrigerator for up to three days. However, if ready to make tortillas, roll out the masa into one-ounce balls and set them aside on a sheet tray or plate beneath a damp towel so they don’t dry out. You are now ready to make tortillas de maíz.

Celebrated chef Gabriela Cámara has built her career on simple dishes showcasing the best local ingredients and traditional techniques. With the MasterClass annual membership, you’ll learn how to make classic street foods like tacos al pastor and quesadillas doradas, plus the tuna tostadas and pescado a la talla that made Gabriela’s restaurant Contramar one of the most famous in Mexico City.