Lettuce Hem: How to Sew a Lettuce Hem

A lettuce hem is a type of sewing finish with a signature curly-edge look. Although the lettuce hem is a specialty finish, it’s an easy sewing technique for beginner sewers to learn. For this sewing project, you’ll need a basic understanding of how to use a sewing machine and a zigzag stitch.

Lettuce hems work best on stretch and knit fabrics since the material needs to extend in, so it can frill and curl. You can sew lettuce hems to create ruffles in a dress or draw attention to the neckline of a T-shirt. To create a DIY lettuce hem, you’ll need a pair of scissors, a sewing machine, a spool of thread, and fabric. Follow this step-by-step sewing tutorial to create a lettuce hem:

1. 1. Thread your sewing machine. Select a thread color of your choice, and thread the bobbin and needle on your sewing machine. You can match the color of your thread to your fabric or use a contrasting color to create a pop. Lettuce hems often use different color threads to draw attention to the curly hemline.
2. 2. Adjust your machine settings. Set your machine to a zigzag stitch with a small stitch length and thread tension; you need these settings in place to give the garment a tight zigzag stitch typical of a lettuce hem. If your machine has a satin stitch setting, you can also use that option to create a lettuce hem.
3. 3. Identify the direction of the stretch. To create a lettuce hem, you first need to find the stretch of the fabric. Using two hands, gently pull the fabric to determine which way the edge of the material naturally rolls. While some materials roll toward the right side of the fabric (the side that faces out when you wear the garment), others curl toward the wrong side of the fabric (the interior side). You can use either to create a lettuce hem, but you need to position the fabric correctly so you can sew along the roll.
4. 4. Sew along the curled fabric edge. Guide the fabric under the presser foot and sewing needle, stretching the material as you create the hemline. If your fabric has a hard time rolling, fold it over with your fingers. As you sew the rolled hem, pull both ends of the material to create the signature frill of the lettuce hem. The more you stretch the material as you sew, the curlier the raw edge will look.

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