Lead Climbing Guide: How to Lead Climb

Lead climbing is the practice of leading one or more climbing partners up a rock face. A lead climber carries a lead rope that is attached to all other climbers on the team. Different members of the team take turns belaying the rope—creating friction by threading it through fixed anchors, quickdraws, and belay devices attached to a climber's body. Typically, a team's belayer is below the lead climber, but it may also be necessary to lead belay—particularly on a multi-pitch climb.

The lead climbing technique is used in sport climbing (with fixed anchors), trad climbing (where lead climbers place removable nuts and cams into a crag), and free climbing (where the rope is only used as a piece of protection, not for upward progress). The sports of bouldering and free soloing do not use rope, and thus they do not involve lead climbers.

Before you lead a team up a sport route or trad route, master these lead climbing basics.

• Rope management: Lead climbers must climb with the rope running down the side of their leg and never between their legs. As a lead climber, you must learn to stack the rope properly before every climb to avoid rope drag—a snag that could leave you hanging upside down. A worst-case scenario could lead to decking (a fall all the way to the ground), which happens when a rope has too much slack to properly catch a falling climber.
• Knot tying: Climbing teams tie into the same rope. The safest knot for tying in is a figure-eight knot. Master this knot before you begin your climbing adventures.
• Handling bolts and quickdraws: Lead climbers must learn proper clipping techniques when affixing quickdraws (two connected carabiners) to bolts or to their own climbing harnesses. Mistakes can lead to back clipping—which can cause a rope to unclip from a carabiner—and Z-clipping, which can snag you in your rope.
• Belaying: A lead climber may need to engage in lead belaying along a route. They may also trade off, or swap leads, with second climbers, which would place them in a standard belay position.
• Communication: A lead climber may not be able to see second climbers behind them, but they should do their best to communicate with them effectively. On multi-pitch climbs, some teams carry two-way radios to communicate when they cannot see or shout to each other.

Belaying a lead climber is an important responsibility. To belay safely, follow these general rules.

• Double-check your lead climber's gear. Before your lead climber sets off, help them double-check their gear. Make sure all figure-eight knots are tight, belay devices are properly threaded, climbing harnesses are buckled, climbing shoes are secure, and climbing helmets are snug.
• Spot the climber as they get on the wall. Remain vigilant until they have attached their quickdraw to their first anchor—the point at which they receive protection from the rope.
• Assume the proper posture. Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart. Take two steps back from the climber's route to avoid standing directly beneath them, but stand close enough to the wall to have control over the rope.
• Use both of your hands. One hand is your guide hand that feeds more rope. The other is your brake hand that stops the rope from sliding through your belay device. Use your dominant hand as your brake hand, and grip the rope at all times.
• Monitor the rope slack. If your rope is drooping below your belay device, you're giving too much slack. If your rope is pulled tight, you don't have enough slack and could be pulling your climber downward.
• Prepare for a fall. If your lead climber falls, the rope could pull your body forward into the wall face or upward against it. Prepare for a fall by clearing the space between you and the wall, ensuring there is nothing for you to trip over if you get pulled forward. Bend your knees and lean back so you can brace yourself against the wall with your feet if you get pulled upward.
• Communicate at all times. Whether you are feeding the rope to an ascending climber or lowering them down a wall face, communicate loudly at all times. If you can afford two-way radio headgear, speak through those devices. Your lead climber will not be able to look back at you, so it is your job to monitor them and communicate as needed.

Safe lead climbing requires a reliable set of climbing gear.

1. 1. Harness: Choose a harness that fits you properly and comfortably.
2. 2. Climbing rope: The length of climbing rope you’ll need will depend on whether you plan on single-rope or double-rope rappelling.
3. 3. Belay devices: A belay device is essential to managing rope slack and tension. Depending on your preferences, you can use a tubular, figure-eight, or assisted-braking belay device to belay a lead climber.
4. 4. Locking carabiners: You’ll use locking carabiners on clove hitch knots, anchors, and belay devices.
5. 5. Bolt hangers, slings, and cordelettes: These tools allow you to build secure anchor points throughout your climb.
6. 6. Quickdraws: Quickdraws are two connected carabiners that allow you to attach your rope to anchors, protecting you as you climb.
7. 7. Climbing helmet: Climbing helmets are essential safety equipment.
8. 8. Climbing shoes: Good climbing shoes help you grip the rock face as you climb. Choose shoes that fit snugly and neutral, moderate, or aggressive shoes depending on the difficulty of the rock face you’re climbing.
9. 9. Gloves and a chalk bag: These will help improve your grip on the rock face.
10. 10. Layers of clothing, sunscreen, and sunglasses: When climbing outdoors, keep yourself comfortable and protected from the sun with proper protective gear.

Climbing is a high-impact activity with an elevated risk of serious injury. Practice, proper guidance, and extensive safety precautions are essential when attempting a climbing pursuit. This article is for educational and informational purposes only, and is not a substitute for professional instruction or guidance.

Take your climbing mastery to new heights with the MasterClass Annual Membership and exclusive video lessons from Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell, two of the world’s most accomplished climbers. Together they’ll help you get a grasp on climbing holds, balance, footwork, and more, plus teach you the ins and outs of ethical outdoor exploration.