Klemheist Knot Guide: How to Tie a Klemheist Knot

The Klemheist knot (or Kleimheist knot) is a type of friction hitch that uses a piece of looped cord or webbing to tie to a length of rope. Also known as the French Machard knot, the Klemheist knot is a popular knot used by rock climbers. It is easy to tie, and is reliably secure when the loop is loaded and can be adjusted when the loop isn't loaded. It is often used by rock climbers when they are ascending or descending a mountain.

It is similar to other kinds of friction knots, such as the Prusik knot and the Bachmann knot, but the Klemheist is effective for ascending because it is easy to adjust upwards. Tying a Klemheist knot starts with a Prusik loop, which is wrapped around an object and then secured through a knot. You can also use webbing as an alternative to rope when you’re tying this knot.

The Klemheist knot is most often used in rock climbing and mountaineering. It is a type of friction hitch knot or autoblock, meaning that when the knot is loaded it doesn't slide along the rope. Then the knot isn’t loaded, it can be adjusted. This is why the Klemheist knot is used as a climbing hitch for ascending, descending, or to belay at multiple stops. The Klemheist knot can also be attached to a carabiner, and can be adjusted as a climber ascends.

Here is a step-by-step guide for how to tie a Klemheist knot.

1. 1. Take a piece of looped rope. Start with a piece of rope, cord, or webbing that is tied into a Prusik loop using a double fisherman's knot.
2. 2. Wrap the loop around the main cord. Wrap your loop under the main cord three times, leaving a little bit of tail on your working end to work with. Make sure each rotation places the pieces of rope neatly next to each other.
3. 3. Make your knot. Pass the standing end of your rope—with the Prusik loop—through the loop on the working end of your rope. Pull the rope tightly to secure the knot.

Climbing is a high-impact activity with an elevated risk of serious injury. Practice, proper guidance, and extensive safety precautions are essential when attempting a climbing pursuit. This article is for educational and informational purposes only, and is not a substitute for professional instruction or guidance.

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