Interfacing Fabric: 6 Uses for Interfacing Fabric

In sewing, interfacing is a sturdy, thick fabric applied to the underside, or “wrong side,” of a garment for support. Sewing patterns call for interfacing to stiffen the fabric, adding strength to the material to help maintain the tailoring and shape of a garment. Most interfacing fabrics are white with a woven texture, but you can find interfacing fabrics in different colors and weights. As a general rule of thumb, the heavier the garment, the thicker the interfacing required to support the item you’re sewing. There are two main types of interfacing fabrics: fusible and sew-in.

Fusible interfacing features an adhesive layer on one side and bonds to a garment through heat and steam, whereas you apply sew-in interfacing (or non-fusible interfacing) to the edge of the fabric by stitching it into the garment’s border.

Since you apply fusible interfacing with an iron, avoid using this interfacing on thin garments and heat-sensitive fabrics, such as vinyl, velvet, fur, lace, or mesh. Sew-in interfacing works well with these heat-sensitive, delicate, and textured fabrics. You can use a sewing machine to apply non-fusible interfacing or hand sew it into the main fabric.

When your sewing project requires body or support, you’ll need to add a layer of interfacing. Some commons pattern pieces that require interfacing include:

1. 1. Bag linings: Some bags, such as totes, backpacks, and purses, use interfacing to create a distinct shape and provide extra support. Adding a layer of interfacing to your bag ensures the sides of the bag stand upright, maintaining the shape of your design.
2. 2. Buttonholes: Interfacing also helps stabilize buttons and keep them in place. Lining your buttonhole with interfacing secures the button and prevents the hole from expanding over time.
3. 3. Pockets: Interfacing also helps preserve the shape of pockets. Pants, jackets, skirts, and dresses often use interfacing to increase the durability of pockets.
4. 4. Quilting: When you sew an appliqué onto a quilt, adding a layer of interfacing acts as a stabilizer, holding the fabric in place. Interfacing also prevents the quilt from fraying at the ends.
5. 5. Shirt collars: Lining a shirt collar with interfacing keeps the collar away from the neck and prevents it from hanging loose. This gives the shirt a sturdy neckline and a professional finish.
6. 6. Waistbands: Waistbands need interfacing for reinforcement to help maintain their shape. The interfacing stiffens the layers of fabric and supports the weight of the lower half of the garment.

Both fusible and sew-in interfacings come in different weights. Your sewing pattern or tutorial should indicate which weight the project requires.

1. 1. Light: As the name implies, this type of interfacing is best for lightweight fabrics, such as lace, voile cotton, organza, muslin, and chiffon. It’s essential to use lightweight interfacing with delicate fabrics, as heavy materials can weigh the garment down and change the drape or structure.
2. 2. Heavy: Thick fabrics used for projects like hats or purses require heavy interfacing to support and maintain their shape. When selecting interfacing for these types of projects, be sure the weight of the interfacing is strong enough for the fabric.
3. 3. Medium: For mid-weight fabrics like poplin cotton, velvet, denim, jersey knit, and polyester, use medium interfacing.

For the best results, match the weave of your fabric to the weave of your interfacing. The three main types of interfacing weaves are:

1. 1. Knit: This type of interfacing consists of knitted fibers, making it more flexible and stretchy than non-woven and woven interfacing. Use knit interfacing when working with stretchy fabrics, such as knits and jersey fabric.
2. 2. Non-woven: This thin type of interfacing consists of bonded fibers; therefore, it is free of a grainline, so you can cut non-woven interfacing in any direction, and the edges will not fray. Non-women fusible and sew-in fabrics are easy to work with and suitable for all garments except stretch or knit fabrics.
3. 3. Woven: Similar to regular fabric, woven interfacing has a grainline. When working with woven fabric, cut along the grainline, matching the piece of fabric’s grainline with that of the woven interfacing.

Try these sewing tips as you add interfacing to your sewing project.

• Choose the right color. Matching the color of your interfacing with your garment prevents the interfacing from showing through the fabric. For lightweight or loosely woven fabrics, use light-colored interfacing.
• Test your interfacing. Before attaching your interfacing onto your main garment, test it on a scrap piece of fabric. Whether you’re using fusible or non-fusible interfacing, testing it can help you determine if the weight of the interfacing fabric matches your garment. If the piece of scrap fabric comes out too stiff, then the interfacing is too heavy for your garment. Conversely, if the garment is too flimsy, you need heavier interfacing.
• Use a press cloth for fusible interfacing. When using fusible interfacing, use a pressing cloth to protect your fabric from the heat. Lay your garment on a flat surface, such as a table or ironing board, and place a press cloth on top. This prevents any glue in the adhesive from seeping through and staining the front or “right side” of the fabric.

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