Sports & Gaming

Indoor Rock Climbing Guide: Tips, Equipment, and Etiquette

Written by MasterClass

Last updated: Oct 15, 2021 • 6 min read

Using artificial walls, indoor climbing gyms replicate the outdoor climbing experience.

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3 Types of Indoor Rock Climbing

Indoor rock climbing utilizes color-coded handholds and footholds to indicate routes of varying difficulty up a climbing wall. These three types of climbing can all be done indoors:

  1. 1. Bouldering: In this discipline, climbing routes are called “problems” and there are no ropes or harnesses involved. Because of this, indoor gyms will use padded mats or crash pads under the bouldering wall to protect climbers (some gyms require a spotter as well), and boulder problems usually max out around 20 feet tall. In North America, boulder problems are graded V0 to V16, with V16 being the most difficult on the V-scale. “Recreational” or VB (beginner) may also be used for beginner-level routes. With a low barrier to entry—you only need climbing shoes and chalk to start—bouldering is a great way for new climbers to build up skills and learn how to climb. It will allow you to focus on your climbing technique, balance, footwork, and strength.
  2. 2. Top-rope climbing: In top-rope climbing—or simply top-roping—a rope end is tied into your harness and secured to an overhead anchor, and the other end of the rope is controlled by a belayer (a person or device that applies tension to the rope to minimize fall distance). The belayer—usually a certified staffer, another climber, or an automatic belaying device—manages your rope in case you fall. Top-roping routes are graded on the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS), which ranges from 5.0 to 5.15c, with difficulty increasing alongside the number. Color-coding is also used to indicate routes.
  3. 3. Lead climbing: To lead climb, you tie into one end of your rope and then use a series of quickdraws (each quickdraw is a pair of non-locking carabiners connected by webbing) attached to fixed bolts in the climbing wall into which you clip your rope as you climb. This indoor discipline is similar to outdoor sport climbing, but the latter does not involve quickdraws that have already been secured and you climb with your own. It’s wise to climb with a belayer—keep in mind that if you slip or miss the next quickdraw, you will fall farther and harder than you would when top-rope climbing since you will fall back to your last clipped-in point. This type of fall is often called a “whipper.” In North America, the difficulty is again indicated by YDS.

Indoor Rock Climbing Equipment

Before you buy a brand-new set of equipment, check out what your local gym provides and makes available to rent. If this is your first time, here’s everything you want to consider pulling together:

  • Rock climbing shoes: These flexible shoes should fit snugly, without hurting, and have grippy soles to help with the small footholds you will encounter while climbing. For your first pair, look for comfort and overall performance. You can find shoes more geared toward your climbing goals and interests as you learn and grow.
  • Chalk and chalk bag: Chalk will keep your fingers and palms dry and help you avoid slipping. Chalk bags are small bags with drawstrings that your gym may be able to provide for you and will have a hook or strap to allow you to access it while climbing. For bouldering, this and your rock climbing shoes will be all you need.
  • Harness: This versatile piece of equipment will be useful for both indoor and outdoor climbing. It connects you to your rope and typically consists of a padded and reinforced waist belt and leg loops, which are connected to the waist belt by a reinforced belay loop. Harness types vary as they are tailored to different styles of climbing, so prioritize both comfort and features when choosing your first.
  • Carabiner: Locking carabiners are necessary when someone is belaying you, to connect the rope to your harness, or when a rope is running through an anchor, so that the carabiner’s spring-loaded gate doesn’t open automatically. Non-locking carabiners are used for less critical connections and don’t feature the security mechanisms that locking carabiners have.
  • Climbing ropes: Climbing ropes are composed of a core, which provides most of the rope’s strength, and a sheath, which protects the core. They can either be dynamic, with elasticity to absorb the energy of a falling climber, or they can be static ropes, which are used for anchoring and rappelling (though never for belaying). When you’re indoors, your gym will usually provide ropes for liability reasons. However, some may require you to bring your own to do lead climbing.
  • Belay device: This mechanical friction device controls the rope while you are belaying, making it easier to control a climber’s descent, and provides a safe and easy way to stop the rope if a climber falls. Gyms may have a class for you to learn how to belay, which will be useful if you’re headed to the climbing gym with a friend and you both want to be able to belay each other.
  • Clothing: Wear comfortable clothes that stretch, offer you mobility, and are snug enough to not get caught on holds or gears.

Tips for Proper Etiquette When Indoor Rock Climbing

A top principle of rock climbing etiquette is to always be aware of your surroundings, including where you’re standing or climbing in relation to others, in order to protect yourself and other climbers. Keep yourself and your belongings out of areas where someone climbing could potentially fall, ensure that crash pads are not in use prior to moving them, and defer to others who are already on the climbing wall.

Additionally, be supportive of your fellow climbers. Mindset is incredibly important in indoor rock climbing. So in addition to being able to belay well or be a good spotter, words of encouragement will go a long way. That said, be aware of your noise level. Climbing gyms can get crowded, and your fellow climbers will appreciate keeping any excessive sounds to a minimum.

Transitioning From Indoor Rock Climbing to Outdoor Climbing

Traditional climbing (or trad climbing), in which climbers place all the safety gear to protect against falls themselves and remove them afterward, may feel like the next step once you’re comfortable with the big walls inside. Or maybe you already have your eye on free climbing or free soloing—a challenging and dangerous form of climbing that doesn’t use safety ropes. But moving to a big wall or crag (steep rock face) and climbing outdoors will be a hefty adjustment, and it’s important to find a certified guide, mentor, or instructor to help you with that transition.

Many gyms will offer classes to help you apply the fundamentals you’ve gained inside to good technique outdoors since indoor ratings won’t necessarily translate to outdoor difficulty. As you search for experienced rock climbers to guide you, you will also want to study the climbing gear you’ll need, consult a guidebook on your potential climbing areas, and keep practicing your lead climbing.

Before You Start Climbing

Climbing is a high-impact activity with an elevated risk of serious injury. Practice, proper guidance, and extensive safety precautions are essential when attempting a climbing pursuit. This article is for educational and informational purposes only, and is not a substitute for professional instruction or guidance.

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