How to Tile a Shower: 4 Tips for Tiling a Shower

Tiling is the process of using mortar to cover a surface with tiles and sealing the small spaces between the tiles with grout. Covering shower walls with tiles or a prefabricated shower unit is a necessary part of making a bathing area waterproof. Shower wall tile comes in a wide variety of materials, textures, colors, and patterns. Pick from porcelain tiles, mosaic tiles, large format tiles, subway tiles, or stone tiles to make your shower uniquely yours.

Tiling requires precision and attention to detail, especially in wet areas where mold and mildew could cause serious problems. Tiling your shower yourself is a great way to save money and gain experience with DIY renovation techniques; however, consider hiring a professional contractor if you're new to home improvement projects.

Acquire the right tools and materials before starting a shower tiling project.

1. 1. Hammer: You’ll need a hammer and perhaps a chisel to remove the old tile in your shower.
2. 2. Tape measure: A tape measure will allow you to measure the space you’ll be working with for your tile project. It will also help you lay out your tile formation.
3. 3. Tile cutter: Whether you’re using porcelain, ceramic, stone, or large format tiles, you will need a saw that can cut tile. Simple snap cutters work well for small, thin tiles, while some tiles require a wet saw for precision trimming. Consider renting a wet saw if you have a significant number of tiles to cut. A wet saw will allow you to make precise cuts to fit your tile layout.
4. 4. Cement backer board: Cement backer board takes the place of drywall when tiling in wet areas. Similar to drywall, it is sold in sheets that range in widths and sizes.
5. 5. Cement board fasteners: You’ll need the appropriate screws, or cement board fasteners, and a screwdriver to attach the cement backer board to the wall studs.
6. 6. Cement board backer drywall tape: Use cement board backer drywall tape to cover the seams where your board pieces line up.
7. 7. Thinset mortar: You'll need thinset mortar mixed to the consistency of peanut butter to adhere your tiles to your backing board.
   
8. 8. Tile: Mosaic tiles, subway tiles, porcelain tiles, and ceramic tiles are all shower-friendly materials. You may also use any other kind of tile that is waterproof and recommended for bathrooms. If you’re tiling your shower floor in addition to the shower walls, you may need to buy another type of tile that offers enough friction when wet.
9. 9. Waterproofing membrane: Waterproofing membranes come in sheet form or liquid form, and are applied to the walls before the cement backer board. If you’re using a liquid waterproof membrane, you’ll need paint brushes to apply it.
10. 10. Notched trowel: You’ll need a serrated tool like a notched trowel to spread your chosen adhesive on the wall for your tiles to stick to.
11. 11. Level: Use a level to make sure that your tiles are on a flat, even surface.
12. 12. Shims: You'll need a level surface for your cement backer board, and shims help make out-of-plumb walls level.
13. 13. Unsanded grout: You’ll need grout to seal any spaces between your tiles. You can buy a pre-mixed grout or a grout to mix yourself. Make sure the grout is unsanded (formulated without any sand) to avoid scratching your brand-new tiles.
14. 14. Rubber float: A rubber float is a tool you use to apply the grouting mixture in between your tiles.
15. 15. Caulk: Apply silicone caulk along the corners and edges of your tile to help with waterproofing.
16. 16. Sealant: Grout sealant and silicone sealant protect your grout joints and caulk.
17. 17. Safety gear: Wear safety goggles and gloves to protect yourself while you’re cutting the tile for your project.
18. 18. Hole saw: You'll need a hole saw to cut out spaces in the cement backer board for your shower head and fixtures.
19. 19. Tile spacers: Use spacers during the tiling process to keep your tiles laid evenly.
20. 20. Guide board: Depending on the tile you’re using, you may need to attach a guide board to the bottom of your shower wall to keep the tile rows level and secure. You will remove this board and apply your bottom row of tiles last.

If you've ever installed tile on drywall, such as a kitchen backsplash, you may notice there are some similarities when installing bathroom tile. However, installing a tile shower requires a few extra steps with some slight variations to ensure the shower area is waterproof.

1. 1. Choose and purchase your tile. There are many different tile types to choose from. Once you choose your tile and tile layout, measure each wall of your shower. Multiply the height and width of each wall, then add those numbers together to determine the surface area of your shower. As a general rule of thumb, it's best to order ten percent more tile than you plan on using in case tiles break in transit or during your project.
2. 2. Remove the old tile. Use a hammer and chisel to remove old tile, starting with the top row and working your way down. Don't worry about damaging the walls as you'll be replacing them with a new backer board.
3. 3. Inspect the surface for necessary repairs. Once you've removed the old tile, inspect the surface for repairs. Check for mold and rotten studs. You may need to make repairs before moving on if you encounter either of these issues. If you encounter mold, stop working and call a professional to remove it.
4. 4. Remove the old drywall. Remove all the drywall below the showerhead to make way for a new cement backer board. The cement backer board provides a moisture-resistant surface for your tile. This is crucial in high-moisture areas. If you leave any drywall in the shower area, be sure to buy a backer board that matches your drywall thickness.
5. 5. Install the backer board. Measure the shower area and cut your boards to fit using hand tools or a jigsaw with a carbide blade. Secure the backer board to the studs using cement board screws. Use shims to leave a quarter-inch gap along the base of the shower—this is called an expansion gap. Cover over seams with cement board backer drywall tape and apply a layer of thinset mortar over the tape.
6. 6. Apply waterproofing membrane. Cement board is not waterproof on its own. You need to apply a waterproof membrane to make it truly waterproof. Apply a liquid waterproofing membrane to the corners and seams with a brush, then roll the membrane onto the rest of the surface using a paint roller or large brush. Apply two coats, letting each coat dry thoroughly, to ensure the area is sufficiently waterproofed before moving on.
7. 7. Plan your tile layout. Once you've chosen your tile, determine your tile layout. Using a tape measure and some of your tiles, place tiles along the wall to see how they will fit before installing them. Make necessary adjustments so that the pattern is consistent and will require minimum cutting. If you’re applying tile in rows—as you might with subway tiles, for example—start with the second row from the bottom first. Mark where your second row will go using a level, and attach your guide board to the wall as a straight edge to work off of. This will help keep the tile rows level as you work your way up the wall.
8. 8. Apply mortar. Mix your mortar to the specifications on the package. Typically, thinset mortar should be the consistency of smooth peanut butter. Apply the tile mortar with the notched side of a trowel. The tile manufacturer should specify what size notched trowel to use. Avoid applying all the thinset at once. Instead, work in small areas or one row at a time to prevent the thinset mortar from drying out before you place your tile.
9. 9. Cut and place the tiles. Depending on the tile, you may need to make cuts before applying them to the thinset. In some cases, you can score the tile with a tile cutter and apply pressure to snap the tile to the correct size. Use bullnose tiles (tiles with a rounded edge) for exposed edges. Once you've set your tile, use tile spacers to ensure that your grout lines will be even.
10. 10. Apply the bottom row. Once all your other rows are dry and secure, remove the guide board from the bottom row. Measure and cut your tiles to fit, being sure to leave a quarter-inch expansion gap between the floor or bathtub and the bottom row of tile.
11. 11. Grout your tile. Allow the thinset mortar to dry for at least twenty-four hours. Then, remove the tile spacers. Be sure to purchase unsanded grout, otherwise, the grout could scratch the tile. Working in small sections, mix the grout and apply it to the tile with a rubber grout float. Be sure to completely fill each gap with grout.
12. 12. Clean your tile. Once the grout has dried (about ten minutes) use a wet sponge to wipe away excess grout on the tiles. Try not to remove grout from the grout joints. The grout will make the tile appear hazy. Once the grout has completely dried, use a haze remover to clean the surface of the new tiles.
13. 13. Apply sealants. Once the grout and caulk have dried for several days, apply a sealant solution to the entire surface.
14. 14. Apply fixtures and finishing touches. Your new tile shower is almost complete. Replace the shower door along with any plumbing or lighting fixtures that were removed in preparation for tiling.

Before tiling a shower, consider these tips.

1. 1. Choose between DIY or hiring a professional. Adequately waterproofing the shower area is crucial to ensuring that your shower is safe and successful. Homeowners with a history of tackling complex home improvement projects should be able to complete the project with relative ease. However, if you're new to tile installation, consider hiring a licensed and insured contractor instead.
2. 2. Check the back of a tile for good thinset coverage. Once you place your first tile, quickly remove it from the wall to check that the thinset mortar is spread across the majority of the tile. If not, consider using a larger notched trowel, such as a half-inch notched trowel.
3. 3. Choose a floor tile with a good grip. Shower floors tend to be slippery, which can be dangerous. If you're installing tile on your shower floor, consider using a tile with enough texture to provide grip for bare, wet feet.
4. 4. Consider installing a pre-built shower pan. Though a custom shower pan offers you more flexibility, it also increases the likelihood of leaks. Pre-built shower pans are often made of acrylic or fiberglass, are easy to install, and are your best bet for avoiding a leaky shower pan.

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