How to Tie a Figure-Eight Knot: 5 Kinds of Figure-Eight Knots

A figure-eight knot, also known as a savoy knot, is a popular knot that has many uses for climbers. Climbers often use modified figure-eight knots to attach themselves to a climbing rope. A figure-eight knot is a type of stopper knot, meaning that it is often used to prevent hauling or rock-climbing ropes from slipping through a narrow hole, retaining device, or carabiner. Figure-eights are strong and there are a variety of ways to tie them for both single and double strands of rope.

Figure-eight knots have different forms depending on their intended use. Here are five common variations on the figure-eight knot and their typical uses.

1. 1. Figure-eight follow-through: This is a loop knot that is commonly used as a belay device. Belaying involves securing a rope to a climbing harness in order to create friction for climbing, rappelling, or hoisting. A figure-eight follow-through knot involves making a figure-eight knot, looping the working end of the rope through an attachment to the climber’s body, then feeding the working end back through the original figure-eight knot.
2. 2. Figure-eight bend: A figure-eight bend, also known as a Flemish bend, is easy to tie and untie and involves knotting two ropes together in a figure-eight fashion.
3. 3. Figure-eight directional loop knot: This type of knot is mainly used to haul heavy equipment loads, and can also be used to form handholds along the length of a rope. It looks like a typical figure-eight knot, with one of the loops pulled out to give extra slack.
4. 4. Figure-eight loop knot: Also known as the Flemish loop or figure-eight on a bight, this type of climbing knot is also used for hauling, securing loads, and as a decorative knot.
5. 5. Double-loop figure-eight knot: The double figure-eight knot is a reinforced version of the standard figure-eight knot. It consists of two ropes secured in a figure-eight fashion rather than one. This knot can hook into two anchor points, forming a stable and secure setup for caving, climbing, and hoisting.

Certain figure-eight knots may require additional security to ensure that the climbing system does not slip or come undone during use. Double overhand knots that tie the tail to the standing end of the rope are the preferred stopper knots for figure-eight knots.

With the right technique, a standard figure-eight knot can be simple to form. Here is an overview of how to tie a figure-eight knot.

1. 1. Make a loop. Start with a section of rope in a wide “S” shape. Cross the working end of the rope (the end you’re tying) over the standing end of the rope part so that it forms half of a figure-eight, with one end a small loop, and one end open.
2. 2. Wrap the rope. Take the working part of the rope and pull it behind the standing part of the rope right before the loop so that it looks like a closed eight with a tail. Pull the tail end so it tightens against the rope.
3. 3. Thread the tail. Thread the working end of the rope over and through the remaining open loop, which will form the figure eight. This form can be further modified to create other types of figure-eight knots.

Climbing is a high-impact activity with an elevated risk of serious injury. Practice, proper guidance, and extensive safety precautions are essential when attempting a climbing pursuit. This article is for educational and informational purposes only, and is not a substitute for professional instruction or guidance.

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