How to Sew Knit Fabric in 6 Steps

Knit fabric is a type of stretchy, comfortable clothing material made by interlocking loops of yarn together (known as knitting). Though sewists can knit clothing by hand with knitting needles and yarn, many clothing manufacturers produce knit garments using multiple sets of yarns and a large commercial knitting machine. Leggings, T-shirts, pants, and swimsuits often use knitted materials (including cotton jerseys, fleeces, and ribbed knits).

Knit fabrics can either be two-way stretch (which stretches either lengthwise or widthwise) or four-way stretch (which stretches both ways). In contrast to lightweight wovens—fabrics with more structure and less stretch—sewing with knit fabrics is tricky and requires some advanced sewing knowledge.

There are several different types of knit fabrics, including:

1. 1. Double knit: This fabric looks the same on both sides and is thicker than other knits. Garments made from double knit fabric (including pants, skirts, and dresses) are often heavy-weight and structured.
2. 2. Fleece knit: This piled knit features a brushed, ultra-soft texture on its right side (or the outside) like one would see in sweatshirt fleece.
3. 3. French terry knit: French terry knit features piles of yarn on one side and loops on the other. This knit makes terry cloth, a popular material for bathrobes and towels.
4. 4. Interlock knit: These fabrics have soft and comfortable textures and look the same on both sides, making them popular for reversible clothing.
   
5. 5. Jersey knit: A common T-shirt material, four-way-knit jerseys originally came from wool, but modern producers use cotton, cotton blends, and synthetic fibers. The outside of jersey fabric is smooth and soft with a slight single rib knit, while the wrong side (or inside) is compiled of loops.
6. 6. Rayon knit: These ultra-soft lightweight knits are slightly lighter than cotton, giving them an elegant drape that makes them a suitable dress fabric.
7. 7. Rib knit: This stretch fabric features alternating knit and purl stitches, with the former being raised and the latter recessed, making vertical ribbing on the outside of the fabric. It’s a typical sweater knit used for dresses, cardigans, and pullovers, as it is fitted and comfortable.
8. 8. Tricot knit: A popular option for swimwear, activewear, lingerie, and dresses, this knitted fabric features ribs that go in one direction on the front side of the fabric and another direction on the back side, allowing them to stretch liberally.

Sewing with knitted fabrics requires the same supplies as any other sewing project in addition to a few specialty items.

1. 1. Needle: Certain special sewing machine needles (like ballpoint or stretch needles) are gentler on knit fabric than universal needles. A ballpoint needle has a rounded tip that reaches through the fibers, and a stretch needle is extra-sharp and designed to avoid skipped stitches. Twin needles are another common type of tool that can help you create stretchy, straight stitches.
2. 2. Sewing machine: Sewing knit fabric is like sewing with other light to medium-weight fabric, meaning you can use a regular sewing machine. While you don’t need a special model, an overlock machine or serger machine helps finish stretch knits to prevent puckering.
3. 3. Sewing supplies: Just as with any other sewing project, you will need the same basic supplies, including fabric scissors, pins, tailor’s chalk, and an iron.
4. 4. Stretch thread: Using stretch thread (made from fabrics like nylon) with a little bit of give will prevent unsightly puckering.
5. 5. Walking foot: Attach a walking foot—which features extra feed dogs that hold the top and bottom layers of fabric in place—to your sewing machine to prevent your textile from stretching and separating as you work.

Follow these step-by-step instructions to learn how to sew knit fabrics:

1. 1. Practice with other materials. Practice sewing other fabrics before you try knits. Since they are thin and stretchy, knits become easier to work with once you’ve developed solid sewing skills.
2. 2. Pre-shrink your fabric. Like any other fabric, knits may shrink in the wash. Wash and dry your material before sewing to avoid this.
3. 3. Mark and cut your pattern carefully. Mark and cut your pattern pieces on a flat surface, without any excess falling over the sides. As is the case with other stretchy fabrics, the edges may pull and interfere with the accuracy of your dimensions. Additionally, leave a seam allowance on all sides.
4. 4. Use the right needle and stitch width. When working with knits, use a ballpoint or stretch needle to avoid ripping the stretchy fabric. Using this needle, add zigzag stitches or stretch stitches—which won’t come undone and will allow your fabric to expand—to complete your sewing pattern. The longer the stitch length, the more room it has to expand. A narrow zig-zag stitch is a great option.
5. 5. Carefully sew the fabric. As you feed the fabric through the presser foot of your sewing machine, make sure not to stretch or pull it as you work. Consider reducing the foot pressure on your machine to allow the fabric to move through it with ease.
6. 6. Hem your fabric. Hemming knit fabrics can be difficult because some of them can unravel easily, and the typical fold-over method creates extra bulk. Use a straight stitch and twin needles to finish your knit fabric hem in a polished way.

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