How to Sew a Zipper in 6 Steps

A zipper is a simple tool that helps close and bind two sides of an open piece of fabric. Zippers, a kind of clasp or fastener, are often found on pants, pockets, jackets, purses, bags, and other forms of apparel and accessories. When you use a zipper to close a coat, you do so by pulling the zipper up to join your coat's right and left sides together.

Zippers can come in various styles, materials, and lengths, but the essential components of zippers include:

1. 1. Slider: This is the part of the zipper you hold and slide up and down to close and open your zipper. This small, rectangular slider is typically made out of plastic or metal.
2. 2. Bottom stop: The bottom zipper stop is the bottom part of a zipper; when you pull your slider all the way down, it ends at the bottom stop.
3. 3. Top stop: The top stops are the two devices that affix to the top of your zipper to stop the slider from coming off the chain. When a zipper approaches closing, the top stops will go together, tightening to fasten the two sides of the fabric together.
4. 4. Teeth: Zipper teeth, also known as the zipper chain, are the pieces of metal or plastic that sit on each side of the zipper and fit into one another’s grooves for fastening when the slider is pulled toward the top stop for clasping.
5. 5. Tape: Zipper tape is the fabric on each side of the zipper and runs alongside the zipper teeth.

There are a few basic kinds of zippers. See what makes each type distinct below:

1. 1. Conventional zipper: The most common zipper type comes in various colors and lengths, ranging from a few inches up to two feet. This makes it usable for a variety of different DIY sewing projects. Conventional zippers are made of plastic or metal.
2. 2. Invisible zipper: These sneaky zippers feature a zipper coil under the tape, making the zipper appear invisible. This slender zipper also has a thin pull that matches the color of the tape to make it blend in.
3. 3. Separating zipper: Separating zippers are found on jackets or hoodies and can open and close at the top and bottom of the zipper.
4. 4. Blue jean zipper: These zippers have a brass finish, and the zipper tape is made out of denim to match your jeans.
5. 5. Two-way zipper: Often found on larger snow jackets, the two-way zipper offers two ways to open or close an article of clothing. There are two zipper pulls, one at the top and bottom, so you can move and open the zipper in either direction. These tend to come in longer tape lengths, ranging from two to four feet long.

There are a few supplies for sewing zippers, including:

1. 1. Zipper feet: A zipper foot is a type of presser foot, a common sewing machine attachment, that allows you to stitch closely to the edge of your zipper fabric.
2. 2. Fabric: You can stitch a zipper to fabric to make a zip pouch, or you can add a zipper to an item of clothing or an accessory.
3. 3. Thread: You’ll want to find threading to match the color of the fabric you are adding the zipper to.
4. 4. Fusible: Using an iron, you can adhere fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric to help the fabric maintain its shape and firmness.

A simple way to learn how to sew zippers into clothing or accessories is to start by sewing a zipper pouch. Novice sewists can follow this step-by-step sewing tutorial using a piece of fabric and a zipper:

1. 1. Measure and test your zipper. Measure out how long you need your zipper to be, and trim it accordingly. To shorten your zipper, use your sewing machine to make straight stitches across the zipper, then cut an inch below the stitches at the end of the zipper. Your zipper length will dictate the length of your fabric for the project. Slide the zipper up and down a few times to ensure it zips smoothly without catching.
2. 2. Create a smooth zipper. With your iron, press the tape that runs along both sides of the zipper teeth to create a smooth zipper. Pay attention to your heat setting—too hot a temperature can melt plastic zippers, but metal ones will be fine. If your zipper tape is fraying, sew a zig-zag stitch around the fabric to secure the raw edges.
3. 3. Stitch the zipper into place. Place the right side of the fabric facing up, and put your zipper wrong-side up at the edge of the fabric. The edge of the zipper should align with the top edge of the fabric. Using a basic straight stitch, sew the zipper into place. Your sewing machine’s presser foot will help hold the zipper fabric flat.
4. 4. Stitch the other side. Flip the project so the right side of the zipper is facing up. Fold your piece of fabric in half and upward to meet the exposed edge of your zipper. Stitch to join the other side of the pouch to the zipper.
5. 5. Sew the sides. You will complete your pouch by sewing the open sides closed. First, unzip your zipper about halfway. This gives some wiggle room to your pouch and helps keep the zipper from becoming too taut to close when the slider approaches the top stop. Then, use your finger to pinch the sides of the zipper tape down, making the zipper pop upward. This affords some bend to the zipper tape. Sew the sides of your pouch together to the zipper tape.
6. 6. Backstitch to secure the zipper. After completing the topstitching, you can backstitch for extra security. You should now be able to open and close your zipper with ease, and you’ve got a fun new pouch to use.

Become a better fashion designer with the MasterClass Annual Membership. Gain access to exclusive video lessons taught by the world’s best, including Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, Diane von Furstenberg, Marc Jacobs, Tan France, Anna Wintour, and more.