How to Sew a Hem: Learn How to Hem in 7 Easy Steps

Hemming your clothes is an easy DIY project to get your clothes fitting just right. Save yourself a trip to the tailor and alter a hemline using a sewing machine. This hemming technique demonstrates how to sew a double fold hem, which is a common type of straight stitch. You can use a sewing machine as described, or choose to hand stitch using this technique.

1. 1. Gather your materials. For this hemming project, you’ll need a sewing machine, iron, ample thread on your bobbin, pins, and the material you want to practice sewing on (which may be an old cotton shirt or some spare lightweight fabrics).
2. 2. Work on the wrong side of your material. If you are working with a shirt, fold it inside out. If you are working with a knit fabric cloth, have its back side face you.
3. 3. Fold and press the raw edge. Grab the bottom edge of your fabric, or the original hem, and fold it up by a quarter inch. Then, iron down this folded edge to help secure it in place.
4. 4. Fold and press again. Fold your hem up once more by a quarter inch and press this new folded edge smooth, just as you did the first time. This achieves the double fold.
5. 5. Pin in place. Use pins to secure the hem, with the rounded edge of the pins facing out.
6. 6. Stitch. Thread your sewing machine with matching thread. Stitch in a straight line, guiding the machine around the shirt and removing the pins as you go. Backstitch (or lock stitch) at the beginning and end of the hem to seal it securely. Raise the needle when done.
7. 7. Snip any fraying threads. If any of your threads are sticking out, snip them so you have a finished hem that’s seamless and tidy.

Below is a beginner’s guide to a few common types of hems and sewing patterns.

1. 1. Double fold hem: As its name suggests, the double fold hem involves folding your fabric up twice, pressing each time, to give a fray-free and polished finish to your hemming. Use the double fold hem on a pair of pants, or for items with straight edges.
2. 2. Blind hem: The blind hem stitch is nearly invisible to the eye: When the sewing is complete, the stitching will be hard to detect on the right side of your fabric.
3. 3. Zig-zag hem: Select the zig-zag setting on your sewing machine or use a serger to create this overlocking stitch. The zig-zag stitch is sturdier, which makes it a good option for bulkier clothes like coats and jackets.
4. 4. Rolled hem: This narrow hem is ideal for lightweight fabric items such as tunics, blouses and scarves. The rolled hem is also useful for curved hemlines. In this sewing technique, the edge of the fabric tucks into the hem, creating a delicate finish.

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