Design & Style

How to Sew a Buttonhole in 9 Steps

Written by MasterClass

Last updated: Mar 19, 2022 • 3 min read

Knowing how to sew a buttonhole using a sewing machine is a necessary skill for various sewing projects. Beginners can learn to perfect this sewing technique by following a few simple steps.

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4 Supplies for Sewing a Buttonhole

In addition to your sewing machine, there are a few tools you’ll need for sewing buttonholes:

  1. 1. Automatic buttonhole foot: The buttonhole foot is a presser foot that clips onto your sewing machine and allows you to sew consistent and perfect buttonholes each time you sew.
  2. 2. Thread: Threads come in various colors, widths, and weights so you can customize the style of your DIY machine or hand-sewn projects. Corespun thread works well for buttonholes. If you have a thicker fabric, like wool, use a cotton thread or embroidery floss. You can choose to match your button thread to the material or use a contrasting color.
  3. 3. Buttonhole cutter: Buttonhole cutters are small chisels that cut sharp, clear openings for buttons without. Buttonhole cutters are more exact and efficient in comparison to seam rippers.
  4. 4. Fray stop: A fray stop, also known as fray check, is a liquid formula that prevents your threads from fraying when you insert a new button. Use a drop or two of this machine-washable liquid to secure the stitching ends.

How to Sew Buttonholes in 9 Steps

When learning how to sew buttonholes, try practicing on a scrap piece of fabric before adding buttons to a dress shirt. Follow this step-by-step tutorial to learn how to perfect your buttonhole stitch:

  1. 1. Set up your fabric. Press some lightweight interfacing onto the wrong side of your fabric before you begin sewing. This backing or fabric stabilizer will act as reinforcement under the sewn buttonholes.
  2. 2. Mark your buttonhole positions. You’ll want to space out your buttonholes evenly, so measure accordingly and make small marked lines in tailors’ chalk to denote where you’ll sew. The buttonhole marking should look like a “T,” with lines for the height and width. A good trick for measuring the length between buttons is adding the diameter and height of the button together; that sum will be the distance between buttonholes.
  3. 3. Ready your thread. Add ample thread to your bobbin—to be safe, always add more than you think you need). Clip on the buttonhole foot to your sewing machine.
  4. 4. Adjust your settings. A simple zigzag stitch setting on your sewing machine will work well for this sewing activity. Set the stitch width to 2.0 and length to 0.5 on your machine.
  5. 5. Line up your needle. Make sure your needle is set to begin sewing in a straight line, starting at the top of the “T” bar.
  6. 6. Slow down at the end of your first line. When you reach the bottom of the buttonhole, raise the needle and adjust the machine to a width of 5.0, a length of 0. This will create straight stitches across the buttonhole’s bottom to help secure the bar tack.
  7. 7. Travel back to the first setting. Reset to your initial stitch length and width, and make sure your needle is on the right side of your button line, ready to travel backward. Guide the machine to the other end of the tack bar, where you began. Bring the needle up when completed.
  8. 8. Cover the buttonhole gap. Adjust your buttonhole setting to (5.0 width, 0 length) and sew through to create a top tack bar. This will cover the gap between your sew lines.
  9. 9. Cut through the buttonhole. Place two pins through your fabric at the ends of your buttonhole. The pins should be parallel to each other to keep the material taut. Use a buttonhole cutter to cut through the middle of your sewn lines, creating a hole for your button to pop through.

Your sewing machine may have specific settings for sewing buttonholes. Be sure to thoroughly read your machine’s manual to properly attach the buttonhole foot and set your machine for buttonhole sewing projects.

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