How To Pickle and Grill With Ramps

Ramps (Allium tricoccum) are small wild onions with broad green leaves and pink-white bulbs that grow in the mountains and hillsides of eastern North America, from Appalachia up to Canada. They are particularly popular in North Carolina and West Virginia.

They emerge from thawed soil around the time of the last frost and only last for a few weeks before rising temperatures cause them to retreat.

Ramps taste like a milder garlic, or a more pungent onion—somewhere directly in between. Ramps are often mistakenly called wild leeks (Allium ampeloprasum), or confused for garlic, spring onions, or scallions since they so closely resemble other members of the Allium genus.

Like scallions, ramps have a thin white bulb. Unlike scallions, ramps also have delicate, broad leaves and a strong garlic flavor that makes them great for pesto.

Wild ramps are easy to identify, as they are the first greens that emerge from the earth in early spring, between late March and the beginning of May.

• They cluster in barren dirt patches across hillsides and in the shade of empty tree branches.
• Ramps are primarily foraged by farmers in the know, who will sometimes lead tour groups on excursions into the woods.
• Overharvesting by both commercial distributors and casual foragers has become an issue in recent years, as the ingredient has gained popularity in top tier restaurants and home kitchens alike.
• Since the life cycle of ramps takes up to seven years, from germination to maturity, most farmers recommend only pulling up to 10% of any given patch.
• It is also possible to simply trim the leaves, leaving the bulbs intact to regenerate.
  

Because of their ephemeral nature, ramps are one of the hottest wild foods when they hit the farmer’s markets. They may cost anywhere from $5 to $20 a pound, with the price rising towards the end of the short season.

• To select ramps, look for firm, bright green leaves and slender bulbs that fade from light pink to white.
• Most full-grown ramps will run about ten inches to a foot long, end to end.

Ramps have also gained popularity because they’re so versatile to cook. Whether grilled with asparagus, sautéed with morels in olive oil, scrambled with eggs, or baked atop pizzas, they impart a fragrant onion flavor that automatically elevates any dish.

They may also be chopped up and stored in an airtight container in the freezer for up to one year—just long enough for ramps to come into season once again.

Gently rinse one pound ramps and pat dry. Peel the outer layer of skin off the bulbs. Trim the leaves down to one inch; reserve the leaves for different use—like pesto—or freeze. Pack the trimmed ramps into jars. Set aside. In a deep saucepan over medium-high heat, combine 1 ½ cups white wine vinegar, 1 ½ cups water, 1 ½ cups sugar, ¼ cup salt, 3 bay leaves, 2 dried red chilies, 1 tablespoon mustard seed, 1 tablespoon black peppercorns, and 1 tablespoon fennel seeds. Bring to a boil. Whisk until sugar and salt dissolve, about five minutes. Remove from heat and pour directly into jars, completely covering the ramps. Seal and let cool. Store in the refrigerator for two weeks to allow for pickling to occur. Keep refrigerated. Consume as a tangy snack within one year.

Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to boil over high heat. Set a large bowl of ice water within arm’s reach. Place ramps in boiling water for one minute; remove from heat with slotted spoon and place immediately in ice water to cool. Wrap in a paper towel and gently squeeze dry. Chop 2 cups ramp leaves (from about 16 stalks). Place in a food processor with ¼ cup chopped pine nuts, 3 garlic cloves, ¼ teaspoon Kosher salt, and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Add 1 cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese and pulse. Add ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil in a consistent drizzle while pulsing. If the pesto seems dry or crumbly, add extra olive oil. When nearing a creamy consistency, add 1 tablespoon lemon juice. Add additional salt and pepper to taste. Pesto will keep up to three days in the refrigerator or seven months in the freezer. Reheat in a pan to serve with a fresh pasta or serve cold with a tomato, mozzarella, and basil bruschetta.

Toss 1 cup ramps (about 10 stalks) with two tablespoons olive oil. Grill over high heat until fragrant, about three minutes. Remove from heat and chop. Place chopped ramps along with 1/2 cup white wine vinegar, 1/2 cup olive oil, 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, 1/2 teaspoon honey, salt (to taste), pepper (to taste) in a blender. Pulse until smooth. Alternatively, you may place the ingredients in a tall vessel and use an immersion blender. Use for salads with leafy greens, like gem lettuce or kale, and light proteins, like chicken or fish. May be made three days in advance and kept in the refrigerator.

From farmer’s market stalls to one-off hauls from the grocery store, seasonal produce provides a fresh and flavorful addition to everyday dishes. World-renowned chefs like Alice Waters cook with seasonal produce to create unforgettable meals. For example, a fruit bowl is on the Chez Panisse dessert menu every day—a snapshot of that particular day of the season— capturing that moment is at the heart of Alice’s cooking philosophy.

Want to translate the flavors of the season to your cooking? The MasterClass Annual Membership provides access to exclusive video lessons taught by culinary masters, including Alice Waters, Gordon Ramsay, Wolfgang Puck, Massimo Bottura, Chef Thomas Keller, and more.