Sewing Patterns: 7 Tips for Following Sewing Patterns

A sewing pattern is an instructional guide that shows you how to assemble fabric into clothing. It is a template of a garment made out of paper that is meant to be laid onto fabric, traced, and cut out. Sewing patterns will contain modifications allowing you to adapt them to a pre-set range of sizes, fits, and shapes.

Paper patterns are the traditional store-bought patterns that come in an envelope, made by pattern companies. Digital patterns are printed offline, often from home. Most patterns are derived from predefined layouts for specific garment shapes, sometimes called the “block pattern” or “master pattern.”

Knowing how to follow a sewing pattern can help you learn how to sew your own custom clothing. See below for a tutorial on how to properly sew a pattern.

1. 1. Take accurate measurements. Some patterns come in different sizes, so it’s important to get the right body measurements for your sewing project. Use a flexible tape measure to take your measurements. Once you have your measurements, you can cross-check them with the size chart on the back of your pattern envelope to determine the right sizing for your garment.
2. 2. Read the directions first. Read the instruction sheets included with your digital or paper pattern before you start. The pattern instructions break down your sewing project step-by-step. The directions will include valuable information like fabric type suggestions, yardage requirements, cutting layout suggestions, and a relevant size chart.
3. 3. Leave seam allowances. Some patterns will include seam allowances—the area between the stitching and cut edge of a fabric—which can greatly affect the way your fabric hangs or drapes. Most patterns don’t include seam allowances, so you will likely need to set your desired seam allowance.
4. 4. Determine your weave grain. The long, arrowed lines on your pattern are called grainlines, and they help determine the direction of your fabric pattern. Grainlines are parallel to the selvage edge—the woven edge of your fabric—which can make it easier to determine how to sew your pattern.
5. 5. Notice the symbols. The triangle marks on the cutting lines are called notches, and they help make sure you accurately match up your paper pattern pieces. Dots (or circles) can also help you line up your sewing pattern pieces. Dots can also indicate other construction details like darts, pleats, tucks, or pockets. If your pattern includes buttons, they will be marked with an ‘X’, while the area for the buttonholes will be marked with a bracketed line. Fold lines (which should not be cut) are often represented by solid or dashed lines, and indicate where the edge of the fabric aligns with the fold.
6. 6. Lay out your pattern. Once you’ve cut your pattern pieces out, lay them out on the appropriate amount of fabric according to your instructions. Make sure you’re laying your patterns on the side of fabric that will go against your body, so that you can make marks to guide yourself. Pin the cut pattern pieces to the fabric (or use pattern weights), and outline the shapes with a pencil, keeping the appropriate seam allowances in mind. Then, cut your pieces out.
7. 7. Sew your garment. Once you’ve cut out all the necessary fabric pieces of your pattern, you can start assembling your garment. Mark each individual piece to make it easier to identify which part of the garment should go where. You can either sew the garment with a sewing machine, or by hand. Always re-read the instructions to make sure you sew it together correctly.

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