How to Do Eye Makeup With Bobbi Brown: Eyeshadow, Eyeliner, Mascara, and Brows

Eye makeup can be as simple or glam as you desire, with eye shadow, eyeliner, mascara, and eyebrows making up the basics. Depending on your eye look, here are some of the tools and products you may need:

1. 1. Eyelash curler: If your lashes don’t curl naturally, using one of these before applying mascara will help keep them lifted.
2. 2. Individual eye shadows or eye shadow palette: Eye shadows come in all colors of the rainbow and in tons of finishes as well. Bobbi’s basic eyeshadow look involves three shadows: light, medium, and dark neutral shades (in a matte or flat finish), all of which are geared toward your skin tone. Use the lightest shadow all over the lid and under the brow bone as a base to nix excess oil and even out the tone of your eyelid. The midtone shadow should be used on the visible lid below the crease for depth and blended three-fourths of the way up the lid. Use your darkest shadow for extra definition along the lash line or when you’re creating a smoky eye.
3. 3. Eyeliner and tools: Eyeliners come in all sorts of shades, but Bobbi prefers black, brown, or navy to define your eyes and complement your eye color without looking too trend-driven. For pencil and liquid liner, you generally won’t need any additional tools. For gel eyeliner in a pot, use an angled or tapered brush with a fine point.
4. 4. Mascara: Bobbi prefers black mascara on everyone. The mascara formula and shape/material of the wand is your preference, but most mascaras come in lengthening, volumizing, or curling options.
5. 5. Brow brush and powder: There are many brow products out there to define your eyebrows. Bobbi is a fan of filling in your brows with an eye shadow or a brow powder that’s the same tone as your brows (and corresponds with your hair) using an angled brow brush and a spoolie. There are also brow pencils, waxes, and gels, with pencils and gels being the most versatile. If you’re using a pencil, make sure you keep the tip sharpened (if it’s a twist-up pen, find one with a fine point). Brow gel comes in many different formulas, but it’s mostly meant to darken and shape your brow hairs. Brow wax has a stronger hold and can really mold your brow hairs into the look you want. Learn more of Bobbi Brown's tips for eyebrow makeup here.
6. 6. Cotton swabs and eye makeup remover: Keep cotton swabs around to fix tiny errors or pick up fallen eye shadow that might land on your cheeks. Cotton swabs are also great for softening harsh lines or cleaning up liner mistakes.
7. 7. Spoolie brushes: Keep clean spoolie brushes on hand to separate lashes that have been stuck together right after applying mascara and to diffuse any harsh lines after filling in your eyebrows with powder or pencil.
8. 8. Eye shadow primer: Use eye shadow primer to help your eye makeup stick to your eyelids. You can also use a lighter eyeshadow as a base to accomplish the same thing.
9. 9. Eyeshadow application tools: The best way to apply eye shadow depends on your formulation. For powder shadow, you’ll want: A fluffy, wide eye shadow brush deposits and blends the shadow on your lid. An angled liner brush helps create definition along your lash lines. A medium, flat brush is great for the crease. A small, fluffy rounded brush helps blend shadows into your crease. For cream-to-powder shadow, your fingers are the best tool for tapping and blending the shadow on your lid. You may also want a flat, rounded brush helps deposit and blend thicker cream formulas.
10. 10. Highlighter: Not typically thought of as an eye-makeup product, Bobbi will sometimes dab a tiny bit of highlighter in the inner corner of each eye.

When it comes to eye shadow, Bobbi likes to layer shades in contrast to blending a darker one. Armed with your three complementary shades, you can build a look that’s as subtle or exciting as you want.

1. 1. Always make sure to tap off excess powder from your eye shadow brush before applying to your eyelid to prevent shadow fallout.
2. 2. Take a step back from the mirror in between each step of your eye makeup to make sure your shadow and liner placement is where you want it and both eye are balanced. If something looks a little off, adjust accordingly.
3. 3. For those with mature skin or fine lines around their eyes, make sure that your powder shadows aren’t too dry or flakey. Heavily textured eye shadow that’s either extremely matte or very shiny looks much more dramatic on mature skin as well. Opt for shadow with a subtle shimmer or satin finish for a natural-looking effect.
4. 4. For an involved eye makeup look, you may want to start with eye makeup first before doing your complexion makeup in case any shadow fallout ruins your foundation or concealer.
5. 5. Always have multiple eye makeup brushes on hand for a smoky eye or other layered looks. Since you’re using multiple shades, each shade should have its own brush.
6. 6. A shimmery or sparkly shadow on top of the lid adds a fun accent and a bit of dimension while diffusing any shadow underneath it that isn’t fully blended.

The most dramatic way to emphasize and define your eyes is by using eyeliner. There are pencil, gel, and liquid eyeliner formulas available to create whatever look you’re going for, be it a striking cat eye or a subtle pop. You can also use a dark powder shadow to line your lids.

1. 1. “Warm-up” a pencil by running it over the back of your hand a few times. That way it won’t drag along your eyelids in a jerky motion when you try to apply it.
2. 2. For liquid eyeliner, it’s best to store pens tip-side down. Some of them require a good shake before using them or running the brush-tip on the back of your hand to get the ink flowing.
3. 3. With gel eyeliner in a pot, choose a brush with a fine point (whether it’s angled or tapered), and don’t pick up too much of the product to avoid clumps or smearing.
4. 4. To apply a line as close to your lashes as possible, try looking downward at a mirror as you apply or gently tug your eyelid upward (like makeup artists do when applying on other people).
5. 5. Eyeliner placement can change the effect of your eye shape. For natural definition, don’t stray away from your eyelid. To emphasize your eyes more, extend your eyeliner beyond the corner of your eye into a wing shape or cat eye. The result is a wider-looking effect.
6. 6. For a stronger liner effect, layer formulas (i.e., a gel on top of a shadow or pencil).
7. 7. For mature skin, crisp lines tend to be more difficult to create and inevitably end up looking a bit wobbly since the skin around the eyes is thinner and looser. A smudgy pencil or gel liner topped with dark eye shadow can create a nice effect that looks organic and not super harsh.
8. 8. Make your eyes stand out more by also adding liner underneath your eyes. Just make sure it’s a softer line than what’s on top of your lid.

Make sure your mascara is doing the most for you.

1. 1. Before applying, wipe any excess mascara from the tip of the wand onto the tube’s opening or on a tissue to prevent clumps.
2. 2. Look down when applying so you can get the wand as close to the root of your lashes as possible without smudging the makeup onto your eyelid. Always make sure you apply the makeup underneath your lashes, not on top of them (which can weigh them down).
3. 3. Whether or not you curl your lashes before applying mascara, gently lifting your lashes upward with a finger after the mascara is freshly applied will help set them into a curl while the makeup is drying.
4. 4. To keep your mascara from running, make sure your concealer isn’t too oily, you aren’t wearing too much eye cream, and your lids are oil free. Using a small amount of powder before applying will help to prevent smudging.

Well-defined eyebrows can help anchor a dramatic eye makeup look, or they can be worn on their own for a more natural look.

1. 1. Always work from your inner brow toward the ends, lightly brushing upward and outward, following the direction of your natural hair growth.
2. 2. If your brows begin looking overly filled or too dark, brush a tiny bit of face powder through them with a spoolie to diffuse the color.
3. 3. Your inner brow should line up with the inner corner of your eye, and the arch should be three-fourths of the way across your eye. When defining the tail end, follow the natural direction of your brow.

What makes eye makeup tricky is that your application and placement may change depending on your eye shape, so learning how to work with what you’ve got is key. If you’ve got round or almond-shaped eyes, you’ll find most methods work for your eye shape.

1. 1. Deep-set eyes have a strong brow bone that may hide your eye makeup underneath it, so adjust your eye shadow placement or try creating a thicker line with eyeliner so it’s visible when you look at your reflection straight on.
2. 2. Hooded eyes are similar to deep-set eyes but with more skin over the brow bone. This can create a bit of a slope or overhang that further obscures your crease and eyelid. Focusing your shadow placement on your lid as opposed to in your crease is best if your eyes are this shape.
3. 3. Monolids are an eye shape that appears to lack a crease. Shadow placement looks best above your crease so that it can be seen when your eyes are open. Eyeliner should be applied very closely to the lash line or tightlined (applied directly in between the eyelashes) to be visible.

Whether you already know a blush brush from a bronzer brush or are simply looking for tips on bringing glamour into your daily routine, navigating the beauty industry takes knowledge, skill, and practical experience. No one knows their way around a makeup bag better than Bobbi Brown, the makeup artist who built a career and a multi-million dollar brand with one simple philosophy: Be who you are. In Bobbi Brown’s MasterClass on Makeup and Beauty, learn how to do the perfect smoky eye, find the best makeup routine for the workplace, and hear Bobbi’s advice for aspiring makeup artists.

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