How to Break in Pointe Shoes: Guide to Fitting Pointe Shoes

Pointe shoes are special dance shoes worn by ballet dancers that allow them to dance “en pointe,” or on the tips of their toes. Pointe shoes have a special toe box that supports the dancer’s toes and a flat end that allows them to balance on the tip for a light, weightless appearance. The lifespan of pointe shoes varies from dancer to dancer—for beginning young dancers, a pair of shoes may last up to a year of delicate wear. In contrast, professional dancers may wear out a pair of shoes over a single performance.

Related to pointe shoes are demi-pointe shoes, softer ballet shoes that don’t have the extra support for pointe work but can be used to train for dancing en pointe.

Pointe shoes have their origins in the 1700s:

• Beginnings. In the mid-1700s, in France, dancer Marie Camargo became the first woman to dance on stage in flat-bottomed shoes. The practice, which allowed her much more freedom of movement, quickly became popular. At the end of the century, inventor Charles Didelot designed a “flying machine” to lift dancers slightly off the ground to dance on the tips of their toes; audiences were entranced, and choreographers started looking for other ways to allow dancers to appear weightless.
• Dancers embrace the pointe shoe. Dancers began to experiment with dancing en pointe in modified satin slippers. During this time, notable dancer Marie Taglioni danced the romantic ballet La Sylphide entirely en pointe. By the end of the century, Italian shoemakers, like Salvatore Capezio, were designing pointe shoes with added support for dancers.
• The birth of the modern style. In the 1900s, Russian dancer Anna Pavlova modified her pointe shoes for additional support, including stiff leather soles and a sturdy toe box, paving the way for modern pointe shoes.

Pointe ballet shoes have several key features that enable dancers to dance on their toes:

1. 1. Toe box: The most important feature of a pair of pointe shoes is the specialized toe box, made out of a strong, sturdy material that supports the dancer’s toes while dancing en pointe. The toe box also features a flat end that allows the dancer to balance on the tip.
2. 2. Shank: The shank is a key feature of the sole of a pointe shoe and is a stiff piece of material (usually leather, layered burlap, or plastic) that usually runs the entire length of the insole. A stiff shank gives additional support and stability to pointe dancers, making it easier for them to balance on the tips of their toes for extended periods. Some ballet dancers have several pointe shoes with varying shank stiffness to perform routines with varying degrees of roll through and fluidity.
3. 3. Drawstring: The drawstring is a length of string that runs around the binding edge of the shoe, which dancers can tighten or loosen to adjust the shoe’s snugness.
4. 4. Ribbons and elastics: Ballerinas use ribbons and elastics attached to their pointe shoes to keep them firmly affixed to their feet during a routine. The ribbons are usually attached near the middle (or vamp) of the shoe and wrap around the dancer’s ankle, while the elastics rest atop the dancer’s foot.

The fit of a pointe shoe is a critical component of pointe work, and an ill-fitting shoe can cause blisters, strained tendons, bunions, and other injuries. Here’s a quick guide to ensure a pair of pointe shoes fits properly—wear your ballet tights when fitting the shoes since they will affect the fit:

• Length: A pointe shoe should fit seamlessly over your foot, from toe to heel—if you can pinch any extra material in the heel while you’re wearing the shoes or if you feel your toes sliding into the toe box when you transition to pointe, the shoes are too long. If your big toes or heels feel pain when you put on the shoe, the shoes are too short. Your foot will be slightly shorter en pointe than it is standing flat—the shoes should feel very snug when you stand flat and fit like a glove when you transition to pointe.
• Width: A pointe shoe should have almost no extra space in width. To test the width, put the shoes on, perform a deep plié, and try to slip your finger between your foot and the box—the perfect fit will only allow the tip of your finger. If you can easily slip your finger in, the shoes are too wide; if you can’t even fit the tip of your finger in, or if your foot looks like it’s bulging out of the toe box, the shoes are too narrow.
• Alignment: Pointe shoes have several structural elements that should properly align with different parts of your foot. As you try on a pair of shoes, make sure that the hard outer wing completely covers your pinky toe, that the stiff shank ends in line with (or slightly lower than) your heel, and that the shank follows the centerline of your foot rather than twisting off to either side.

Checking the fit of a new pointe shoe can be challenging. The best method is to try on your first pair of pointe shoes under the supervision of your pointe teacher, another experienced ballet instructor, or ballet fitter in a scheduled pointe shoe fitting.

Pointe shoes are meant to naturally mold to the shape of your feet for the perfect fit and ideal support during routines, which is achieved through a process called “breaking in.” Professional dancers and instructors approach the breaking-in process in different ways. Some prefer bending or shaping the shoes manually before wearing them for the first time, while others prefer wearing them and performing gentle warm-ups. Your approach will depend on your instructor and ballet class, your time frame, and your feet.

In general, here are the essential parts of the breaking-in process for a new pair of pointe shoes:

• Shape the shank. The shank—the stiff support along the arch of a pointe shoe—should break in exactly the shape of the arch of your foot, which will provide maximum support. Some dancers shape the shank by wearing their new shoes and doing a series of careful tendus or relevés; once they remove the shoe, they can see the crease of their natural arch and gently bend it further with their hands to perfect the shape of the shank.
• Shape the box. The box of the shoe needs to soften and conform to the shape of your toes. Some dancers prefer to shape the box by gently closing their shoes in a door frame, while others gently move through demi-pointe and pointe exercises on a barre to soften the box. It can take a long time to mold the toe box of pointe shoes—if it’s taking too long or causing too much pain, some dancers recommend dabbing a bit of water or rubbing alcohol across the top of the box to help soften it.
• Adjust the drawstring. The drawstring is a length of string that runs around the binding edge of the shoe and can be tightened or loosened to adjust the shoe’s snugness. To adjust the drawstring, try on your pointe shoes and see if there is any gapping. If there is, untie the drawstring, tighten it just a little, and then retire it in a square knot until you get the right fit.
• Get the right accessories. There are many accessories that dancers can use to make their pointe shoes slightly more comfortable or better shaped to their feet, including lambswool inserts, spacers, and toe pads. When dancing with a new pair of pointe shoes, consider what additional materials could help give your shoes a better fit.
• Sew in ribbons and elastics. While not strictly a method for breaking in a pair of pointe shoes, sewing in ribbons and elastics is an essential step to preparing a pair of pointe shoes for dancing.

Practice ballet with Misty Copeland, the principal dancer with the American Ballet Theatre. Get the MasterClass Annual Membership and learn how to put individual barre techniques together to create powerful performances and introduce artistry to your choreography.