How to Belay a Rock Climber: 5 Safety Tips for Belaying

In the sport of rock climbing, belaying is the process of managing the rope that keeps a climber from falling. Although rock climbers propel themselves upward using their arms and legs, a poor hand-grip or a jagged overhang can cause a climber to slip, at which point the climbing rope secures them and keeps them from tumbling down a rock face. The climber relies on a climbing partner to manage that rope—preventing too much slack or too much tension—through proper belay techniques.

There are multiple types of belaying.

1. 1. Lead belaying: In the lead belay technique, most of the rope is pooled on the ground at the feet of the belayer. This lead belayer feeds the rope to a climber who clips the rope to anchors along the rock face.
2. 2. Top-rope belaying: In top-rope climbing, a rope runs up and down a rock wall and is threaded through an anchor on the summit. A top-rope belayer stands at the base of the wall and takes in rope slack as the top-rope climber ascends.
3. 3. Fixed-point belaying: If two rock climbers are on a crag at the same time, one may need to belay the other. To do so, the belyer feeds the rope through an anchor in the rock face, running it through the belay device while the other climber moves upward.

Belaying works by controlling tension and friction on a climbing rope so that it can support the weight of the climber without pulling the belayer into the rock face. Climbing harnesses feature belay loops that attach, via a locking carabiner, to a belay device. This device allows the rope to pass through as the climber ascends, but the belayer can use the device as a friction break to catch the climber if they fall. The belayer guides a bight of rope, or the middle part between each end of the rope. Their job is to make sure that the climber has enough slack to proceed upward but also enough tension to quickly catch them if they fall.

To safely and efficiently belay up and down a rock face, experienced climbers and their belayers follow consistent belaying steps. The following method applies to belaying a lead climber from below.

1. 1. Tie-in together. Belaying starts by tying into the same climbing rope. The climber's end should be tied to their harness with a figure-eight knot, and the belayer ties in with a stopper knot. If the climber is much heavier than their belayer, the belayer should also anchor themselves to the ground with another rope.
2. 2. Double-check your lead climber's gear. Before your lead climber sets off, run a safety check on their gear. Make sure all figure-eight knots are tight, belay devices are properly threaded, climbing harnesses are buckled, climbing shoes are secure, and climbing helmets are snug.
3. 3. Spot the climber as they get on the wall. Remain especially vigilant until they have attached their quickdraw to their first anchor—the point at which they receive protection from the rope.
4. 4. Assume the proper posture. Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart. Take two steps back from the climber's route to avoid standing directly beneath them, but stand close enough to the wall to have control over the rope.
5. 5. Use both of your hands. One hand is your guide hand that feeds more rope through the belay device. The other is your brake hand that stops the rope from sliding through the belay device should the climber fall. Use your dominant hand as your brake hand, and grip the rope at all times.
6. 6. Monitor the rope slack. If your rope is drooping below your belay device, you're giving too much slack. If your rope is pulled tight, you don't have enough slack and could be pulling your climber downward.
7. 7. Prepare for a fall. If your lead climber falls, the rope could pull your body forward into the wall face or upward against it. Prepare for a fall by clearing the space between you and the wall, ensuring there is nothing for you to trip over if you get pulled forward. Bend your knees and lean back so you can brace yourself against the wall with your feet if you get pulled upward.
8. 8. Communicate at all times. Communicate clearly at all points of the climb, from the first "on belay" to the final "belay off." If you can afford two-way radio headgear, speak through those devices. Your lead climber will not be able to look back at you, so it is your job to monitor them and communicate as needed.

Top-roping involves many of the same belay techniques as lead climbing. However, top-rope belaying mostly involves bringing in rope slack cast off by the climber. To handle the demands of top-rope belaying, use a technique called the PBUS method. PBUS is an acronym that stands for "pull, brake, under, slide."

• Pull: When you pull your guide hand down and simultaneously lift the gripped brake rope out and up, you absorb rope slack.
• Brake: As your guide hand nears the belay device, you can lock the rope in the device by flipping the brake rope down.
• Under: As you move your guide hand onto the brake rope, place it beneath your brake hand. You can then use this guide hand as your new brake hand while the other hand slides.
• Slide: Loosen the grip of your original brake hand and slide it upward until it is six inches below the belay device. Now grip the rope firmly.

Watch carefully as your climber moves, and then repeat the PBUS sequence as needed. Keep your hand in brake position as you wait for their next move.

To make your climbing or mountaineering expedition a good one, take all proper cautions when belaying. Use these safety tips to ensure the best possible results.

1. 1. Practice in a climbing gym. Even the most experienced climbing teams practice their belaying and climbing technique in indoor gyms. Many of these gyms have assisted-braking devices to help you as you learn the technique. They also provide belay tests for certification.
2. 2. Work on knot-tying. Safe climbing requires ultra-secure knots. In particular, you must master the figure-eight knot and the stopper knot.
3. 3. Always keep your brake hand on the rope. Use your dominant hand as your primary brake hand. Never take it off the rope until your climbing partner is on the ground and you've said "belay off."
4. 4. Use your whole body to catch a fall. The bodyweight of a falling climber can jolt a belayer and—in the worst-case scenario—slam them into a rock wall. Avoid this by immediately reacting to a fall. Quickly pull your brake hand down and lean back so that your climbing harness and body absorb some of the impact of the fall. You need a powerful counterweight to the momentum of your falling partner.
5. 5. Communicate constantly. Whether you're belaying a climber up a crag or helping them rappel back down, call out to them and let them know about obstacles such as overhangs or loose rocks. Listen for their feedback on the rope—perhaps they need more slack, or perhaps they need more tension—and don't stop listening and responding until they are on the ground next to you.

Climbing is a high-impact activity with an elevated risk of serious injury. Practice, proper guidance, and extensive safety precautions are essential when attempting a climbing pursuit. This article is for educational and informational purposes only, and is not a substitute for professional instruction or guidance.

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