How Selvedge Denim Is Made: Selvedge Denim Guide

Selvedge (from “self-edge,” also spelled selvage) denim refers to the self-finished edges of denim outseams created by vintage shuttle looms. These now-classic looms were the primary method for producing denim up until the mid-twentieth century when the demand for denim rose. Around this time, denim mills began using projectile looms to quickly produce non-selvedge denim.

The shuttle loom produces hardier denim with a tight, woven band at the edge of the denim that keeps it from unraveling or fraying. This finished edge gives the denim a neater and cleaner appearance than most modern-made non-selvedge denim. Using shuttle looms can also result in visual inconsistencies, so each piece of selvedge denim has its own unique look. Today, some denim brands even use specific colors to “personalize” their selvedge denim jeans.

Raw denim refers to unwashed denim, which can be selvedge (made with a shuttle loom) or non-selvedge (made with a projectile loom). Selvedge denim refers to the tight edging of the fabric, which derives from the shuttle loom, where raw denim refers to unwashed denim that wearers will likely have to break in and wash in a specific manner to retain its quality and size.

In 1873, the first pair of jeans were created when tailor Jacob W. Davis purchased denim fabric from Levi Strauss & Co. to make a hardy work pant. These pants were reinforced with copper rivets, creating a super durable type of denim jean that was resistant to the standard wear and tear of typical cotton or wool pants.

As word spread of this new attire that could withstand the strenuous work elements of the Old West, demand increased. Strauss and Davis teamed up to meet the demand, with Davis in charge of manufacturing, and Strauss in charge of production and selling the finished products. While denim wouldn’t become part of the fashion mainstream until after the 1950s, selvedge jeans were widely popular amongst those who worked in the fields and mines.

Selvedge denim is made on vintage shuttle looms. When the shuttle moves across the loom, it carries a bobbin of weft yarn (the filler yarn) along the warp yarns (the vertical threads) to weave the fabric together. However, unlike projectile looms (which make most of the mass-produced denim products today), the weft yarn is not cut after each insertion, resulting in a tightly woven “endless” edge that is less susceptible to unraveling.

The main differences between selvedge and non-selvedge denim lie in their finish and production.

• Selvedge denim is made using a shuttle loom. Selvedge fabric is created on old shuttle weaving machines (or shuttle looms), creating denim with a neat, finished edge. The manufacturing process is slower but is often associated with a premium quality denim product. The vintage shuttle-weaving machines fell out of use in the mid-twentieth century as they were replaced with projectile looms that could keep up with the growing demand for denim.
• Non-selvedge denim is made using a projectile loom. Manufacturers use projectile looms to make non-selvedge denim for the specific purpose of quick mass production, which typically results in a more affordable, lower quality denim. Projectile looms do not create a neat, finished edge on denim like shuttle looms.

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