Heel Hook Climbing: How to Heel Hook With Proper Form

In rock climbing, the heel hook is a maneuver that elevates your heel above your torso, allowing you to propel your body weight with your leg muscles. As a sport climbing technique, the heel hook provides rock climbers with another appendage—almost like a third arm—to lift their body into the next position.

The heel hook position works well in many rock climbing and bouldering scenarios. Consider heel hooking for the following purposes:

• To grasp overhanging ledges: Heel hooking can help you grab on to an overhang above your body.
• To reach for a sloper or crimp: Many of the handholds rock climbers use on slopers and crimps (two types of handholds that require different grips) can also be achieved with a heel hook. If your hamstrings are limber, you can think of your heel as a third hand to grab holds on a crag or rock face.
• To keep your body weight close to the wall: The safest body position is pressed against a wall. A good heel hook (or toe hook) can keep your body weight inward toward the wall.
• To spare your upper body: Beginner climbers and seasoned pros alike understand that your arms and upper body take a beating in sport climbing and bouldering. Even indoor climbing can cause nagging injuries. Use a heel hook to transfer responsibilities to your powerful leg muscles, and give your hands a break.

To properly execute a heel hook on a crag, boulder, or indoor climbing wall, try to follow these key steps:

1. 1. Choose the proper equipment. Choose climbing shoes that have a textured rubber surface. This creates friction with the crag and allows you to maintain the strongest possible heel hook.
2. 2. Find a stable starting position. Beginner climbers should only attempt a heel hook from a stable position where all extremities are in contact with the wall.
3. 3. Identify your mark. Choose the crimp, sloper, or overhang that you will be targeting with your heel hook. Eye it closely and visualize your move.
4. 4. Lift your heel and hook it onto your mark. It is now time to lift your heel upward. Think of it as a third arm you can extend. Heel hooks only work with strong, limber hamstrings, so be sure to warm up in advance.
5. 5. Use your hooked heel to pull your body weight upward. Just as you would lift your body with your hands, use your heel to push down and inward toward the wall. Your body tension should push you upward. The power should come from your glutes and hamstrings.
6. 6. Find a new stable position. Follow through on the heel hook technique until you've established a new stable position. From here you can plan your next move—which may involve another heel hook.

No one wants to be caught on steep terrain with a serious climbing injury. Following these injury prevention techniques can keep your heel hooks safe:

1. 1. Prepare via strength training. You need strong, limber hamstrings and glutes to successfully heel hook. Climbers and boulderers should work on hamstring curls and squats to prepare their crucial climbing muscles.
2. 2. Use the proper equipment. Never attempt a heel hook without good climbing shoes. Choose a pair that has textured rubber heels, which provides more surface area and greater friction.
3. 3. Practice at a climbing wall. Work on your strength and footwork at an indoor climbing wall. Go through different scenarios and maneuvers before attempting steep outdoor terrain.
4. 4. Warm up before every climb. Always warm up before climbing. Place special emphasis on stretching all leg muscles. For heel hooking, pay particular attention to your hamstrings and glutes. You'll need their full cooperation throughout your climb.

Climbing is a high-impact activity with an elevated risk of serious injury. Practice, proper guidance, and extensive safety precautions are essential when attempting a climbing pursuit. This article is for educational and informational purposes only, and is not a substitute for professional instruction or guidance.

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