Design & Style

Guide to Men’s Suit Styles: 3 Classic Types of Suits

Written by MasterClass

Last updated: Jun 7, 2021 • 3 min read

Although dark business suits might look the same from a distance, there are many subtle differences between the different types of suits.

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3 Basic Suit Styles

There are three basic types of suits that are perfect for different occasions.

  1. 1. Two-piece suit: A two-piece suit is the most basic type of suit, consisting of a suit jacket and matching trousers. This is the type of suit you might wear to a job interview. In business settings, you'll generally wear a black, gray, or navy suit with a tie.
  2. 2. Three-piece suit: A three-piece suit consists of a matching suit jacket and trousers, plus a vest. It’s the perfect type of suit for weddings and special occasions at work.
  3. 3. Tuxedo: A tuxedo or dinner suit is a special-occasion suit consisting of a black or midnight blue dinner jacket with just one button and matching trousers, worn with a bowtie. Wear a tuxedo to events with a black-tie dress code.

6 Things to Consider When Buying a Suit

There are six distinguishing features that vary between suits.

  1. 1. Buttons: Single-breasted jackets feature just one column of two or three buttons and are by far the most common type of jacket. Double-breasted jackets are a little more formal and feature two columns of three (sometimes two) buttons. Tuxedo jackets only have one button.
  2. 2. Vents: Vents are slits at the bottom of a jacket that allow for mobility and airflow. Jackets with a single vent have one slit in the back of the jacket. Jackets with a double vent have two slits on the back of the jacket. Many Italian-style ventless suits have no slits at all.
  3. 3. Pockets: Jetted pockets are tucked into the lining of a suit with a narrow slit at the opening. Flap pockets are jetted pockets with a flap of fabric that covers the opening of the pocket. Patch pockets are made from a piece of fabric attached to the front of the suit—they’re the least formal type of pocket. In terms of location, a breast pocket is located on the top left side of the front of a suit jacket (this is where a pocket square goes), and hip pockets sit in line with the bottom button. A ticket pocket is a smaller pocket designed for holding a train ticket. The ticket pocket is usually located above the right hip pocket.
  4. 4. Lapels: The lapels are one of the most distinctive features of a suit jacket. Notch lapels are the most common type of lapel; they feature a triangle-shaped notch in between the collar and the lapel. Peak lapels have an upward-pointing peak that meets the collar. Shawl lapels are a combination collar and lapel with rounded edges.
  5. 5. Material: Wool is the most common fabric for suits. Wool can be worsted, or combed, for a smoother texture, and it can be blended with other materials, such as silk. Luxurious cashmere or mohair wools are sometimes used for the fanciest suits. Suits often come in solid colors, but popular patterns include conservative pinstripes and windowpane checks. For more casual settings, you might choose a seersucker or plaid suit.
  6. 6. Tailoring: Tailoring can make the difference between an ill-fitting suit and a fantastic suit. You can have a store-bought suit tailored for your body type, or you can have an experienced tailor create a bespoke suit just for you. When it comes to fit, there are a few options. Slim-fit suiting is cut close to the body, while classic-fit suiting leaves more room around the waist, chest, and legs. Modern-fit suits fall somewhere in between, offering more mobility than a slim fit without feeling as baggy as a classic fit.

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