How to Sew a Godet Skirt in 9 Steps

Godets are thin, triangular pieces of fabric stitched onto a dress or a circle skirt from the knee line to the hem to give a garment movement; these vertical inserts start narrow at the top and flare out toward the hemline of long skirts. The godet skirt is a type of A-line flare skirt that was popularized during the swing era and mid-twentieth century and worn by swing dancers. The godet inserts in swing skirts make dancers’ movements and outfit more dynamic. Godet skirts are typically midi skirts and maxi skirts made from flowy fabrics, like crepe or chiffon. The godets can match the fabric of the existing skirt, or they may be a contrasting texture or color.

Godets, pleats, and ruffles add volume to skirts and dresses, but there are key differences. Godets are more free-flowing and give skirt patterns more of a draping quality, while pleats are lines of fabric folded over and pressed down for a crisp look. Ruffles are layers of fabric running around a skirt horizontally, whereas godets are additional pieces of fabric sewn vertically into the skirt.

Follow this tutorial to create your own DIY godet skirt:

1. 1. Take your measurements. Take your widest hip measurement and the length measurement from your waist to the hemline you’d like. You can make your skirt knee-length or sew a longer skirt that will fall around your ankles.
2. 2. Mark the godets’ top point. This will be around the knee, where the godets will start to flare out. You can mark this on the fabric in tailor’s chalk.
3. 3. Do some simple math. Measure the width of each godet by adding three inches to your hip circumference and then dividing it by four. You can round up to the nearest half or whole inch; this figure will be how wide each of your godets are at the bottom of your skirt. Add a half inch of seam allowance along the long edges at the bottom of the skirt.
4. 4. Make your godet pattern. A godet sewing pattern comprises four skirt panels and four, pie-shaped godet pieces. You can use tracing paper to measure and cut the pattern pieces, then mark the points on your skirt panels where the godets will go.
5. 5. Create your skirt. Sew the straight panels together from the waistline down to where the godet panels will begin.
6. 6. Press the seams open. Press the seam allowances open, all the way down to the hem.
7. 7. Insert the godet panes. With the wrong side of the skirt facing you, lay a godet panel face down onto one of the openings between the straight panels. Align the godet panel along the skirt seam, and pin each side of the godet into place.
8. 8. Stitch. Flip the skirt right-side up, and stitch from the top of the godet down either side to the hemline to secure it. Repeat this process for your remaining godets.
9. 9. Add a waistband. Fold the top of the waist down one-and-a-quarter inch and press with an iron. Line the top of the skirt with one-inch elastic, and secure it with an edgestitch along the top and bottom.

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