A Guide to Free Climbing

Free climbing is a type of rock climbing without assistance from ropes, anchors, or belays—a system of safety ropes. Free climbers may use ropes, anchors, carabiners, and quickdraw devices (a pair of carabiners connected by a textile sling) to protect themselves from a catastrophic fall, but they may not use these devices to ease the rigors of their climb.

The opposite of free climbing is aid climbing, where climbers may use top roping, a belayer (a climber who controls a safety rope), and manmade anchors in the rock to assist their ascent and descent. In a free climb, such gear only exists for safety reasons.

Famous rock climbers known for free climbing include Alex Honnold, Kevin Jorgeson, Tommy Caldwell, Lynn Hill, Warren Harding, Dean Potter, and John Bachar. These elite climbers have made their names ascending highly technical climbing routes. These routes include The Dawn Wall and The Nose of El Capitan, both located in California's Yosemite National Park, as well as legendary big walls near Rifle, Colorado, and Wallface, New York.

Free climbers participate in two main types of climbing—sport climbing and traditional climbing (better known as trad climbing)—which can be further categorized as single-pitch climbs or multi-pitch climbs. Here are four types of climbing that can qualify as free climbing:

1. 1. Sport climbing: In sport climbing, rock climbers clip into fixed permanent anchors drilled into crags (also called rock walls or faces). They use these for safety and not for leverage or for belaying.
2. 2. Trad climbing: In traditional climbing (or trad climbing), a climber affixes their own anchors as they ascend a rock face and then removes them (also called cleaning) on the way back down.
3. 3. Single-pitch climbing: A single-pitch climb deals with one single rock face and one set of anchors. Single-pitch climbs are common in both sport climbing and trad climbing.
4. 4. Multi-pitch climbing: In a multi-pitch climb, rock climbers face multiple crags and must reorient before each one. Most multi-pitch climbing is done in pairs, and belaying may be necessary to transition from one pitch to another. Therefore, very few multi-pitch climbs qualify as true free climbing.

In addition to free climbing, many in the climbing community engage in related activities like bouldering, in which you ascend a single massive boulder (using a route called a boulder problem). Some even take on riskier activities like BASE jumping (jumping from a fixed object and descending using a parachute) or free solo climbing.

Despite similar names, free climbing is not the same thing as free solo climbing. Free solo climbing (or free soloing) involves ascending and descending a rock wall with no ropes, quickdraws (a type of gear), or manmade anchors. A free soloist may therefore only use natural cracks, ledges, and handholds found in the wall itself.

In contrast, free climbing also relies on natural cracks, ledges, and handholds, but the climber may use ropes, anchors, and crash pads for safety in case of a fall.

Use these tips to make your free climbing experience as safe as possible.

1. 1. Start indoors. Many people ease into free climbing at an indoor climbing area. Once you’ve refined your technique at the climbing gym, you can move on to outdoor climbing where you must contend with shallow handholds, challenging overhangs, and unpredictable weather.
2. 2. Research your route. Before launching into your first ascent, consult guidebooks, topographical maps, and climbing blogs to learn more about routes and strategies. Befriending members of the climbing community can also yield valuable information about sport climbs in your area.
3. 3. Bring high-quality gear. A free climber needs a sturdy, reliable set of climbing shoes and a top-rated climbing helmet. And although you hope not to use your climbing rope, you should still purchase high-quality rope to ward off a catastrophic fall.
4. 4. Practice technique with top roping. Ascending a rock face under your own power can be difficult at first. You can hone your free climbing technique using a top rope to support your body weight. If you fall, the top rope will catch you, and you can try a challenging section again. Gradually rely on the rope less and less until you are truly free climbing.
5. 5. Know your limits. Even the greatest rock climbers did not start out scaling the famous El Capitan rock formation in Yosemite National Park. They refined their climbing technique on easy rock faces and indoor climbing walls and slowly built up their abilities.
6. 6. Respect nature. Outdoor free climbs are at the mercy of Mother Nature. Weather can ruin even the best-laid plans. Be mindful that your most important task is not summiting but rather coming home safely. If rain, snow, wind, or cold make that too difficult, be smart and turn around.

Climbing is a high-impact activity with an elevated risk of serious injury. Practice, proper guidance, and extensive safety precautions are essential when attempting a climbing pursuit. This article is for educational and informational purposes only, and is not a substitute for professional instruction or guidance.

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