Flowering Quince: How to Care for Flowering Quince

Part of the rose family, flowering quince shrubs (Chaenomeles speciosa) are thorny, multi-stemmed deciduous shrubs with bright red, orange, white, or pink flowers. They are relatively easy to care for, as they don’t require pruning and can withstand cold temperatures once established. Flowering quinces are an excellent choice for a hardy shrub border or barrier, though their bloom season is relatively short.

The flowering shrubs bloom spring flowers for about two weeks, followed by aromatic, yellow-green, edible fruits in the fall that are high in pectin, making them great for preserves and jellies. The fruits appear similar to apples and have a bitter taste. Flowering quinces are also known to attract hummingbirds.

There are many varieties of flowering quince, with native species growing between 6 and 10 feet high. The most common cultivars, including hybrids, found at most garden centers are smaller.

1. 1. Chaenomeles speciosa: Commonly known as ‘Orange Delight,’ this variety has blossoms to match their name and form in bright, double blooms. There are also miniature bonsai varieties that grow up to 12 inches tall and still produce blossoms and fruit.
2. 2. The “double-take” series: These varieties include ‘Scarlet Storm,’ ‘Orange Storm,’ and ‘Pink Storm.’ They each grow to 5 feet and have double flowers that correspond to their names. They are not resistant to rabbits but are deer-resistant.
3. 3. Chaenomeles japonica: Also known as the Japanese flowering quince, this variety grows to 2–4 feet tall, producing red, salmon, and orange-hued blooms. They are native to East Asia and have also been naturalized in the US. This variety comes in several small forms, including Chaenomeles x Superba (a hybrid commonly known as ‘Jet Trail,’ which has white flowers and grows 3–4 feet tall). There is also ‘Texas Scarlet,’ which grows abundant clusters of fiery red flowers.

The flowering quince is low-maintenance. The shrubs work in most soil types, and pruning is based on the garden design, not need. If you do want to limit growth, be sure to remove suckers at the ground level as they appear. Their dense nature makes them great as a barrier hedge. However, they have a relatively short bloom time, making them less of an ornamental addition to a garden.

• Light: These shrubs need full sun, but they can grow in the partial shade, too.
• Soil: Use well-drained loam soil. Too much alkaline soil pH can lead to chlorosis. Clay and sandy soils also work well.
• Water: Use mulch along the base to retain soil moisture. Flowering quinces are fairly drought-tolerant once established; however, young plants will need more water. Don’t use sprayed water, as wet leaves can lead to fungal leaf spots.
• Temperature: If propagating from stem cuttings, even temperature is crucial. Once established in the ground, flowering quinces are fairly tough with a hardiness zone of 4–10.
• Fertilizer: Utilize a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer in late winter and early spring, prior to new growth for the next year. You can also add compost as a soil amendment.
• Pruning: Unless working to achieve a specific landscaping design, pruning isn’t necessary. If gardeners want to prune the hedges, do so after blooming has finished stimulating new growth. Pruning can be a peaceful practice and there are flowering quince bonsai available to keep in-home, and they still include beautiful blossoms.

Propagation of flowering quince can be done through either seeds or stem cuttings. Before germination, seeds must go through a freeze-and-thaw cycle, which can be done by putting the seeds in the refrigerator for 60–90 days. After this period, plant the seeds in a container of soil with water and cover them with plastic until germination occurs and two sets of true leaves develop. Then transplant seedlings into individual containers, keeping the soil moist without overwatering. Once they are 12 inches tall, transplant the flowers to your yard.

With stem cuttings, you’ll want to take stem clippings approximately 6 inches long from a matured flower quince. Remove all the leaves except for the ones on the top, which should remain intact. Score the bottom of each stem to reveal the cambium layer under the bark. Dip the cutting in rooting hormone, then put in a well-watered, sandy, general-purpose soil. Cover with plastic and place it in bright, indirect sunlight. After 30 days, check on the growth by gently tugging on the stem—if there’s tension when pulling, then the plant has rooted properly and can be transplanted outside after a month.

When growing flowering quince, be aware of fungal leaf spots. These appear as a discolored spore that clings to the leaf until it turns brown and falls to the ground. Once there, the spores wait for the next plant surface to start the process again. They’re caused by fungal, bacterial, or viral plant diseases, or injuries due to nematodes, insects, toxicity, or herbicides.

These flowers may also develop fire blight and scabs, and yellowing of the foliage, also known as chlorosis, can occur in high pH (alkaline) soils. They can also be badly damaged by aphids, though the damage they cause to new growth is not life-threatening. Other insects to look for are scales and mites.

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