Drop Knee Climbing Guide: How to Use the Drop Knee Technique
Written by MasterClass
Last updated: Jul 15, 2021 • 3 min read
When climbers and boulderers encounter a particularly challenging passage, they may resort to a footwork technique called drop knee climbing.
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What Is the Drop Knee Technique
The drop knee technique is a maneuver climbers use in rock climbing and bouldering. For the drop knee technique, the climber places their weight on the outside of one foot, rotating their hip toward the wall and lowering their knee; their other foot rests against a hold for support.. This climbing technique comes in handy on challenging overhangs and extreme angles because it optimizes body tension for powerful hip thrusts.
When to Use the Drop Knee Technique
The drop knee position serves multiple purposes in sport climbing. Rock climbers tend to use it for three main purposes.
- 1. Negotiating overhanging walls: Use the drop knee technique to keep your lower body close to the wall while extending your hand to grip the overhang. When reaching up with your right hand, drop your right knee, extend your hand, and then thrust upward with your right hip. Reverse the sides if you’re reaching with your left hand.
- 2. When holding slopers or crimps: Crimps and slopers are tough to grip, and they may not provide you with enough leverage to lift yourself with your arms. By starting with a bent knee and thrusting up with your hip muscles, you can propel yourself on to the next hold.
- 3. Wherever you can get two decent footholds: If a crag provides enough space for two decent footholds, use the drop knee technique with one foot while anchoring yourself with the other. On the other hand, you should not attempt a drop knee while smearing on a sheer vertical face or when one leg is engaged in a heel hook. In such scenarios, a drop knee will push your body weight away from the wall, which is dangerous. It is safer and more efficient to push your weight toward the wall.
3 Benefits of Using the Drop Knee Technique
The drop knee technique offers clear benefits for climbers and boulderers.
- 1. Lowered center of gravity: With a dropped knee as the lowest point on your body, you transfer your center of gravity downward. This provides a stable position while you ponder your next move.
- 2. Powerful upward thrusts: When you use a drop knee starting position, you harness the power of your hip to powerfully thrust upward. Your hips and buttocks offer the greatest amount of energy of any muscle group, so use them when possible.
- 3. Relieves pressure on hands: Routine use of the drop knee technique reduces wear and tear on your hands and can lead to injury prevention in your arms. It also helps when your arms are gripping slopers or crimps that cannot provide enough leverage.
How to Use the Drop Knee Technique With Proper Form
The drop knee technique can be powerful, but it’s essential to practice this technique properly and in a safe environment. Without the right technique, you may experience drop knee injuries to your medial collateral ligament (MCL) or your knee's meniscus. With good technique, a proper warmup, and the right climbing shoes, the drop knee maneuver is generally safe and reliable.
- 1. Start with all four limbs in contact with the wall. Make sure there is enough space to rotate one of your knees into a dropped position.
- 2. Rotate one foot outward. Use your big toe as an anchor as you rotate your foot outward.
- 3. Lower your knee. As you bend your knee downward, pull your hip in toward the wall. Do this slowly—particularly if your knee ligaments aren't as limber as you'd like them to be.
- 4. Begin to pull with your opposite hand. If you are dropping your left knee, slowly pull your body up with your right hand. If you are dropping your right knee, slowly pull your body up with your left hand.
- 5. Reach with your same-side arm and thrust upward with your hip. Reach with the same side as your dropped knee. If you dropped your left knee, reach with your left hand. As you reach, push upward with your leg, using your hips for power and your big toe as an anchor. Let this propel you up to your next hold.
- 6. Re-establish four points of contact, and repeat as necessary. When performed properly, the drop knee technique can be used again and again throughout the climb.
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