Concrete Patio Guide: How to Make a DIY Concrete Patio

A concrete patio is a patio made out of a poured concrete slab. Patios can be made from a number of materials like pavers, tiles, brick, or flagstone, but concrete is a popular choice for making patios because it is versatile, cheap, and can easily withstand many harsh weather conditions. If properly reinforced, concrete can also hold the weight of many heavy backyard hardscaping installations like outdoor kitchens or gazebos.

Here are some of the potential benefits of making your patio out of concrete.

1. 1. Concrete patios are durable. Concrete patios are less susceptible to rot, mold, or warping than natural stone or wooden decks, and hold up well in inclement weather.
2. 2. They may be more affordable than other options. Concrete patios generally cost less than many other natural stone or brick pavers because you’re purchasing a bulk substance rather than a number of individual items to lay.
3. 3. They’re low maintenance. A concrete outdoor patio is easier to wash than pavers or bricks because there is no grouting or gaping. You also don’t have to worry about weeding around the area, which can make it far easier to maintain than other types of patio materials.
4. 4. They’re versatile. A concrete patio has plenty of design versatility and provides a level canvas to decorate however you like. You can easily install a pergola, fire pit, seating area, pool deck, or outdoor kitchen over your concrete patio. You can also brush, engrave, paint, or stamp concrete in a number of ways to give it the appearance of another texture.

Here is an overview of the potential drawbacks to installing a concrete patio in your backyard.

1. 1. They can crack. Concrete patios can have a tendency to track if they haven’t been properly installed. While some cracks can be filled with epoxy, some damage may require a larger part of the patio to be broken up and repoured.
2. 2. They can stain. Light-colored concrete patios, especially those with high foot traffic, can become stained over time.
3. 3. They can be slippery. Rain or melting snow can make concrete patios particularly slippery which can result in injury should someone fall. Run a broom over the surface of the wet concrete patio as it dries to create some tread to prevent it from becoming too slippery.
4. 4. Doing it yourself can be labor-intensive. You can save money in labor costs and materials by laying a concrete patio yourself, but you want to make sure that you have plenty of help and material to work with. You will need to be very precise and careful when making your patio, because any slight miscalculations can compromise the integrity or soundness of your deck. Pouring concrete is difficult to do on your own, so make sure you have an extra pair of hands.

If you decide to build a concrete patio, here is an overview of what you’ll need.

• Prepping materials: Some of the items you’ll need to prep your patio space include measuring tape, a hoe or shovel, a handsaw, gravel, wire mesh, enough wooden 2x4s to frame your deck, wooden stakes, and string. These items will allow you to excavate and prep your space and to create a frame to pour your concrete into.
• Materials to pour your concrete: If you’re filling a space that is less than a square yard, you can mix your concrete at home. Buy enough bags of concrete mix to fill your space and use a wheelbarrow to mix it. If you are filling a larger space, consider renting a concrete mixer with enough pre-mixed concrete to fill your excavated space.
• Materials to finish your concrete: Once you’ve poured your concrete into your frame, you will need a screed (which can be an extra 2x4), a bull float, a plastic tarp, and an edger to level off and finish the material.

Here is an overview of how to prep and excavate your yard for a concrete patio if you’re doing it yourself.

1. 1. Select your location. Choose a spot that has even ground. A concrete patio needs to be poured on a flat surface because you want it to be level.
2. 2. Measure your site. Use a tape measure to determine how large the dimensions of your concrete patio will be. Before you excavate, you should also check your local building codes to make sure you do not need a permit or special permission to build your own patio. Also, check to make sure that you will not be running into any underground water or septic pipes when excavating your site.
3. 3. Stake the area. Drive stakes into the corners of your patio area to lay out the area that you will be excavating. Tie a piece of string to use as a line level between the stakes.
4. 4. Dig your site. Use a shovel or trowel to clear your space of any grass, topsoil, and roots. You can typically dig a hole that is eight inches deep to make a ground-level patio, but make sure that you have enough room for at least four inches of gravel. If you want a raised concrete patio, only dig down about half as far as you would for a ground-level patio. Make sure the patio slopes away from your home in accordance with your local code’s rate to ensure that water and other elements can run off properly.

Once you’ve prepped your patio area, you’re ready to start putting in your own concrete patio.

1. 1. Lay the base. First, you will need to set a foundation to pour your concrete on top of. Compact the earth inside your roped-off area, then lay an even four-inch layer of gravel on top of that to provide support and drainage.
2. 2. Create a form for your concrete. Place a perimeter of new stakes around your dig site, slightly outside of where you will place your boards for your patio form. Line your excavated area with 2x4s just under your perimeter string to create a form for your concrete and help reinforce the base. Make sure the wood you use for your form boards is heavy and sturdy enough to withstand the added weight of wet cement. Nail or screw the form boards into your perimeter stakes.
3. 3. Saw off the top of the stakes. You want the stakes to remain in place to guide your concrete pouring, but you don’t want them to be visible afterward. Use your handsaw to level off the top of the stakes at surface level.
4. 4. Coat your forms. Use a release agent or vegetable oil to coat your wooden forms to ensure they do not stick to your concrete after it is poured and dried.
5. 5. Lay your mesh reinforcement. In addition to your gravel base, it’s a good idea to provide a wire mesh frame to support any weight on top of your patio and prevent it from cracking. Use six-inch squares of ten-gauge metal. Set the mesh up to sit in the middle of the slab’s thickness.
6. 6. Mix your concrete. The size of your area will determine whether you can hand mix your concrete or use an industrial mixer with ready-mix concrete. If you are hand-mixing the concrete, prep it according to its given instructions then use your wheelbarrow to mix and pour your concrete. Make a ramp for yourself using a wooden board up to your form and use that to get your wheelbarrow up to the border of your frame.
7. 7. Pour your concrete. Once your concrete mix is made, pour the entire mixture into your dig site. Use a shovel or other appropriate tool to push the wet cement into the edges of the form, making sure that any low spots are filled. Run a screed—which is any form of straightedge, like a 2x4—over the top of your concrete in a side-to-side or sawing motion to smooth off any excess concrete. Go over that surface with a bull float to further smooth your surface out. As you work with the cement, water will appear on the surface of the concrete. Wait for it to dry before you continue working.
8. 8. Apply the finishing touches. Before your concrete dries, use an edger or other appropriate tool inside the edge of your form to round the edge of your patio out.
9. 9. Let the concrete cure. Let your new concrete patio cure (or dry) for about two to three days. Cover it with a wooden tarp as it dries to protect from any debris getting caught in your concrete. Once the concrete patio is dry, remove the tarp and slowly slide the wooden 2x4 forms out from the edge of your patio. Fill any gaps left from your patio form boards with topsoil to make the soil level.

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