A Guide to Deep Water Soloing History and Safety

Deep water soloing (DWS) is an advanced form of rock climbing where climbers climb a cliff or rock face with a body of deep water at the base of the climb. It is a form of solo climbing in which climbers ascend or descend on their own without the help of another person belaying. Deep water soloing, also known as psicobloc, which translates in English to "Psycho Bouldering," allows climbers to attempt difficult climbs where the climbers can fall into deep water instead of onto rock. Deep water solo climbs are typically done on sea cliffs during high tide, but can also be done over reservoirs, lakes, rivers, and other deep bodies of water.

Deep water soloing first came into practice in Mallorca, Spain in the late 1970s. Miquel Rivera, a local climber, had grown tired of the aided climbs in his area. In 1978, he traveled to Porto Pi, Palma in the area to find new routes where he could practice free soloing. Rivera eventually moved onto the sea cliffs, realizing the ocean acted as a natural safety net. Mallorca soon became one of the most popular bouldering locations, and deep water soloing became a popular option for climbers looking for new ways to free solo climb.

Deep water soloing gained further recognition when several short documentary films highlighted the form of climbing. The documentaries followed some of the most experienced people in DWS climbing, including Tim Emmett, Klem Loskot, and Chris Sharma, who performed the first ascent of popular DWS routes in Mallorca. Today, Mallorca is still a popular location for DWS climbers, along with Ka'anapali in Hawaii, Olympos in Turkey, and the Blue Grotto in Malta.

If you're planning on trying a deep water solo climb, keep the following safety tips in mind.

1. 1. Bring proper equipment. The most important tool in a deep water solo climb is a good pair of climbing shoes that can get wet. You may also need a kayak or canoe depending on the site. Chalk bags are useful for keeping your hands dry and able to grip to the rock face. Make sure to bring the appropriate kinds of ropes, and various options or rope. Check them before your climb for wear and tear. Only use ropes that are in good condition.
2. 2. Choose an accessible location. If you’re a DWS beginner, it’s a good idea to start with a location that's easily accessible. You want to be able to leave the location easily in the event that someone in your climbing party is injured.
3. 3. Check the tide levels. When you’re deep water soloing over the ocean it's important to understand the variation in tide levels during different times of the day. You want to plan your climb during the highest tide. Low tides can make deep water soloing significantly more dangerous since the water level is lower and there might be more hazards, such as large rocks.
4. 4. Bring climbing buddies. One of the biggest mistakes when free climbing is to go it alone. You should always have at least one other person in your climbing party that can assist you in case of an emergency. Although deep water soloing may seem safer because of the drop into water, there are still risks that may necessitate assistance.
5. 5. Make sure to fall safely. Water may be there to break your fall, but you still need to know how to fall safely. Hitting the water incorrectly can result in serious injury. When you’re jumping or falling from the rock wall, try to hit the water feet first and drop like a pencil into the water. Make some practice jumps from a lower point on the wall before making a higher jump.

Climbing is a high-impact activity with an elevated risk of serious injury. Practice, proper guidance, and extensive safety precautions are essential when attempting a climbing pursuit. This article is for educational and informational purposes only, and is not a substitute for professional instruction or guidance.

Take your climbing mastery to new heights with the MasterClass Annual Membership and exclusive video lessons from Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell, two of the world’s most accomplished climbers. Together they’ll help you get a grasp on climbing holds, balance, footwork, and more, plus teach you the ins and outs of ethical outdoor exploration.