Brogue Shoe Guide: Explore 8 Types of Brogues

Brogues, from the Gaelic word bróg meaning “shoe,” refers to any low-heeled shoe, loafer, or boot with hole perforations on the leather uppers (top of the shoe), known as broguing, and serrated edges alongside the seam of the shoe. Brogues were initially invented for outdoor use, with the perforations serving as drainage holes for workers who toiled in the rain or marshes of Ireland and Scotland. Brogues are available in various color shades and styles, with open and closed lacing systems. There are many types of brogue designs, including wingtips, full brogues, semi-brogues, and quarter brogues, which feature different decorative perforations and serrated edges. Oxford shoes with decorative perforations or serrations also fall under the brogue umbrella.

The brogue shoe is a shoe style invented at the turn of the nineteenth century for the Irish and Scottish working class who traversed through and worked in the muddy countryside. Traditionally, brogues were made from durable, untanned cowhide with perforations that worked as a drainage system, allowing water to evacuate the shoe as the wearer walked through, or worked in, wet terrain. By the 1920s, the shoe evolved for more formal usage and rose to popularity in the United States, where the two-toned, black-and-white brogues became a staple for formal attire.

There are many variations of the brogue shoe, such as:

1. 1. Derby brogue: Derby brogues are open-laced dress shoes (where the eyelets are sewn on top of the vamp), making them less formal than brogues with a closed lacing system. Derby brogues are a flexible shoe that pairs well with chinos, jeans, trousers, or suits.
2. 2. Full brogue: Also known as wingtip brogues, full brogues have a W-shaped, pointed toe cap with wings that run along the side of the shoe, ending before the ball of the foot. These shoes have both perforations and serrations along the edges of the top cap and perforations in the center. A full brogue shoe with two-tone colors is known as a “spectator shoe,” while a full brogue without perforations on the top cap is known as an “austerity brogue.”
3. 3. Ghillie brogue: Ghillie brogues are tongueless with an open lacing system. This unique design has long laces that wrap around and up the ankle, tying around the calf. This traditional brogue shoe is often worn with a kilt, highlighting the unique lacing.
4. 4. Longwing brogue: Longwings, or English brogues, are defined by wings that laterally extend to the end of the shoe on both sides, meeting at the center seam, and an open lacing system. This sportier brogue style has declined in popularity since the 1970s, but is still available on the market.
5. 5. Monk brogue: Monk brogues do not feature lacing, instead buckles or straps (also known as a monk strap) secure the shoe to the wearer’s feet.
6. 6. Oxford brogue: Brogue Oxfords feature a closed lacing system concealed within the upper part of the shoe and a few broguing accents on the caps.
7. 7. Quarter brogue: Quarter brogues have a straight toe cap and perforations along the shoe’s edges. Quarter brogues pair well with formal attire for black tie events or other formal occasions.
8. 8. Semi-brogue: Also known as half brogues, semi-brogues have a perforated and serrated edge along the bottom of the straight toe cap and perforations in the center. Semi-brogues were created by shoemaker John Lobb in 1937, and have since become a staple in business casual attire. Learn more about common office dress codes.

The key difference between brogues and Oxfords lies in the design. Classic Oxfords do not feature perforations or décor, giving them a sleeker look than shoes with broguing. However, certain Oxford styles feature brogue accents, which means that it is possible to find a brogue Oxford dress shoe.

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