How to Aid Climb: 3 Tips for Aid Climbing

Aid climbing is a type of rock climbing wherein climbers use devices called aiders—such as cam hooks, nuts, daisy chains, fifi hooks, step ladders, and pitons—to help support their bodyweight. You might also use aiders in other forms of big wall climbing such as sport climbing and trad climbing. Some aid climbers may even use a portaledge, which is a manmade flat ledge suspended from above.

In sport climbing and top climbing (which are known as free climbing techniques), gear placements only exist as a safety net in the event a climber falls—they aren't for supporting bodyweight. Aid gear, on the other hand, is meant to provide support to climbers going up and down the rock face.

Aid climbers should pack all the same climbing gear they would use on a free climb. The only difference is they should also bring along aiders.

1. 1. Climbing shoes: Choose climbing shoes that fit snugly without limiting circulation.
2. 2. Climbing helmet: Climbing helmets are essential safety equipment.
3. 3. Climbing rope: Climbing rope that is 9.5 to 9.8 millimeters is ideal for most rock climbing and mountaineering.
4. 4. Climbing harness: Choose an adjustable harness that fits you properly and comfortably.
5. 5. Belay device with locking carabiner: A belay device is essential to managing rope slack and tension. Rock climbers entrust their lives to their belay devices, so shop from trusted, established brands.
6. 6. Quickdraws: Quickdraws are two connected carabiners that allow you to attach your rope to anchors, protecting you as you climb.
7. 7. Ascenders: These clip into a rope and help you go straight up a vertical line.
8. 8. Aiders: A wide array of aiders can help you on a climb. These include step ladders (also called etriers), pulleys, cam hooks, sky hooks, nuts, fifi hooks, and pitons. Daisy chains come in particularly handy in aid climbing. Some brands make adjustable daisy chains for moments when you must be suspended from above on a challenging aid climb.
9. 9. Optional gear: Other optional types of gear include climbing chalk and chalk bags, guidebooks and topographical maps, belay gloves and belay glasses, a haul bag, and a rope bag.

In many ways, aid climbing resembles other types of climbing, whether you're going up a single wall face or a multi-pitch route. Whether you're aiming for the big walls of Colorado's Rocky Mountains or just scaling a small rock face in your town, obey the basic principles of rock climbing.

1. 1. Fixing gear: The distinguishing feature of aid climbing is using fixed gear to help you up and down the rock face. Just like in trad climbing, you will be inserting cams, cam hooks, pitons, nuts, hexes, and bolts into a rock wall. But unlike in trad climbing, you can support your bodyweight on these items as you affix the next piece of gear. Master the art of attaching gear as part of your aid climbing prep.
2. 2. Using ladders: Many aid climbers use a type of webbing ladder called an aider, which provides footholds as you ascend. These are fixed in place with bolts and daisy chains. Learning how to attach ladders and use them is a key part of aid climbing.
3. 3. Rope management: Aid climbers must climb with the rope running down the side of their leg and never between their legs. When you are a lead climber, learn to stack the rope properly before every climb to avoid rope drag—a snag that could leave you hanging upside down. A worst-case scenario could lead to decking (a fall all the way to the ground), which happens when a rope has too much slack to properly catch a falling climber.
4. 4. Knot tying: Climbing teams tie into the same rope. A common knot for tying in is a figure-eight knot. Master this knot before you begin your climbing adventures.
5. 5. Handling bolts and quickdraws: To make full use of your climbing aids, master proper clipping techniques when affixing quickdraws (two connected carabiners) to bolts and other gear. Mistakes can lead to back clipping, which can cause a rope to unclip from a carabiner, and Z-clipping, which can snag you in your rope.
6. 6. Belaying: An aid climber will have to belay their partner at various points, just as they would in trad climbing, sport climbing, or top-roping. As a belayer, you represent crucial backup if your partner falls or if gear fails.

To safely and enjoyably aid climb, familiarize yourself with the norms of the sport. These rules apply whether you are scaling El Capitan or a climbing wall at an indoor gym.

1. 1. Know your difficulty ratings. Regular climbing routes are rated on the V-scale or the Yosemite Decimal System, but aid climbs are rated on an A-scale or a C-scale. A-scale climbs require pounding pitons, while the C-scale refers to "clean aid climbs" where you must leave the route clean when you are done (much like in trad climbing). An A1 or C1 aid climb is fairly easy, while any route rated above A4 or C3 is considered a hard aid climb.
2. 2. Don't underestimate the difficulty of aid climbing. Some climbers think that the presence of aid gear makes aid climbing a breeze. This misconception can change upon your first ascent. In fact, the difficulty of an aid climb depends far more on the pitch of the rock face than on what kind of gear you use. Respect the route at all times.
3. 3. Communicate with your climbing partners. Just as you would in trad climbing, sport climbing, and top-rope climbing, you will likely work in tandem with a climbing partner as you aid climb, with one person ascending and one person serving as a belayer. Keep your communication frequent and cogent to ensure safety for both you and your partner.

Climbing is a high-impact activity with an elevated risk of serious injury. Practice, proper guidance, and extensive safety precautions are essential when attempting a climbing pursuit. This article is for educational and informational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional instruction or guidance.

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