9 Common Active Ingredients in Skin Care

An active ingredient in a skin care product or pharmaceutical drug is an ingredient that is biologically active. A biologically active, or pharmacologically active, ingredient is one that can have beneficial or adverse effects on a living thing. By comparison, inactive ingredients (also called excipients in the pharmaceutical industry) serve as a means of delivering the active ingredient to the body. There might be multiple active ingredients or inactive ingredients in a single product.

Active ingredients appear in skin care products, such as cleansers, moisturizers, serums, face masks, and sunscreens—all in varying dosage forms and potency. A dermatologist may need to prescribe specific skin care products, depending on the potency and specific type of active ingredient.

Skin care is chock-full of ingredients—some active, some inactive, some preservatives—and it can be hard to know what they mean for your skin. You should consult with your doctor or dermatologist before adding new skin care products or active ingredients into your routine. Here are nine of the most common active ingredients you will see in skin care products:

1. 1. Alpha hydroxy acids: Also called AHAs, alpha hydroxy acids are common in anti-aging products, such as those for treating fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and age spots (dark spots). Sun sensitivity is a side effect of AHAs, so you may want to add an SPF greater than 45 to your skin care routine if you’re using products with AHAs. Glycolic acid, an exfoliating agent, and lactic acid are examples of AHAs.
2. 2. Benzoyl peroxide: Common in cleansers aimed at fighting acne, benzoyl peroxide sometimes requires a prescription; other times, the products are available over the counter. Benzoyl peroxide is drying and can irritate, so it’s important to hydrate the skin often, moisturizing after using benzoyl peroxide.
3. 3. Beta hydroxy acids: Salicylic acid is a common beta hydroxy acid, or BHA. People use salicylic acid to prevent or clear up blemishes, breakouts, and blackheads, and to even out skin tone. Cleansers with a high concentration of salicylic acid might require a prescription from a dermatologist.
4. 4. Ceramides: A collection of waxy lipids, or fatty acids that are naturally occurring in the skin, ceramides can improve the skin barrier through hydration. Ceramides bind skin cells together to create a strong barrier against damage. Shampoos, deodorants, and some makeup might contain ceramides.
5. 5. Hyaluronic acid: The substance hyaluronic acid occurs naturally in the human body, with the highest concentrations in young skin, joint fluids, and other healthy tissues. Over time, hyaluronic acid levels in the body deteriorate. Skin care products that contain hyaluronic acid aim to replenish the depleted levels. Typically, you use hyaluronic acid products in conjunction with a vitamin C product, such as a vitamin C serum.
6. 6. Hydroquinone: Skin care products with an active ingredient of hydroquinone are bleaching or lightening agents. People use such products to lighten hyperpigmentation (melasma) as it relates to hormonal changes or pregnancy. Sun sensitivity is a side effect, so you should use a hydroquinone product with sunscreen to prevent sun damage.
7. 7. L-ascorbic acid: The only form of vitamin C that is safe for use in skin care products, L-ascorbic acid can stimulate collagen production, possibly leading to a reduction in fine lines, wrinkles, and scars. People use these types of products as skin brightening agents or to protect against free radicals. First-time use might cause stinging or redness.
8. 8. Niacinamide: One part of the vitamin B3 molecule, niacinamide is an ingredient with the purported ability to adapt its effects to different skin cells, making it an option for all skin types, even sensitive skin. This active ingredient occurs naturally in many foods, including fish and grains. It’s frequently an oral supplement, but it tends to be stronger in topical applications, like serums or moisturizers. People use niacinamide to hydrate the skin and even skin tone, among other reasons.
9. 9. Retinoids: Retinol, retinal aldehyde, and retinyl esters are all types of retinoids that derive from vitamin A and are common ingredients in skin care products. People use retinoid products to decrease the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve uneven skin tone and pigmentation, and hydrate the skin to prevent dryness.

The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) requires that skin care products always list active ingredients on the packaging. The more potent the active ingredient, the higher its position must be in the ingredients list.

The FDA considers some skin care products to be more cosmetic in nature, while it classifies others as over-the-counter (OTC) drugs. According to the FDA, products that enhance existing appearances—like moisturizers—are cosmetics. In contrast, products that claim to be able to change the structure or function of the body are drugs and subject to FDA new drug approval.

From start to finish, the FDA approval process involves research of product side effects and shelf life; clinical research; a thorough FDA review; and post-market safety monitoring.

Individuals experience different levels of sensitivity to ingredients found in various skincare products. To prevent adverse reactions, consult a dermatologist before applying a new product to your skin. This article is for educational and informational purposes only, and is not a substitute for professional medical advice.

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